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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 

01iapf-l?Li Copyright No 

ShelfjC4ii2r 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, 




MOSKS CLEAVELAND. 



Centennial History 



OF 



CLEVELAND 



BY 



/ 

C. A. URANN 



CI^EVEIvAND 



1896 4^%rjVl Ri«H/ ^-V\ 



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Copyright i 







PRESS OF J. B. SAVAGE 
CLEVELAND 



Respectfully Dedicated 

to 

Mrs* Edward H* Foster, nee Jennie B» Rogfers, 

Great-g-rand-daughter 

of 

James and Eunice "Waldo Kingfsbury, 



SETTLING, 1796-1821. 

ESTABLISHING, • • • • 1821-1846. 

IMPROVING, 1846-1871. 

ENLARGING, 1871-1896. 



CENTENNIAL HISTORY 



OF 



CLEVELAND, OHIO. 



Chapter I. 



The First Quarter of the Century ; that 
OF Settling: from 1796-1821. 

A BRIEF notice of some facts connected 
with the early history of Connecticut is 
necessary in order to better appreciate 
and understand the history of Cleveland, there- 
fore we turn back to the time when Gov. Wins- 
low, of Plymouth Colony, visited Connecticut in 
the year 1631 with a commission from Lord Say 
and Seal, Lord Brook and several other noble- 
men interested in the Connecticut patent, for the 
purpose of erecting a fort on the Connecticut 
River. He was, undoubtedly, the first white 
man to view the scenery along that beautiful 
river. 

In October, 1635, a band of sixty settlers 
started from Watertown and Newton, Mass., 
to go into this wilderness, establishing themselves 
along the Connecticut River from Windsor to 
Wetherfield, but most of the number soon died, 



8 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

or returned; only a very few remained to greet 
the Rev. Thomas Hooker and his company of 
about one hundred men, women and children, 
who left Cambridge, Mass., in June, 1636, trav- 
eling with their packs on their backs, or in their 
hands, or both ways, preceded by their few 
wagons and carts containing their worldy pos- 
sessions, drawn by oxen or horses. About 100 
head of cattle, swine and goats accompanied them 
as they wound through the forests on their long, 
wearisome journey which occupied two weeks, 
and can now be accomplished in a few hours. 

Cutting their way through the untrodden for- 
ests, steering their course by the aid of a com- 
pass, they penetrated the unknown country; 
encamping by night under the canopy of heaven, 
with the constant expectation of being visited by 
wild beasts or Indians — the one quite as welcome 
as the other — and journeying by day on foot, 
these brave-hearted, restless people pushed on to 
settle our Mother State of Connecticut. 

Hooker's colony reached the Connecticut 
River about the middle of June — the month of 
vernal beauty — at a spot somewhere between 
Springfield and Hartford, proceeding on until 
they reached an upland which had been cleared 
by fire and was nearly surrounded by tall forests 
of pine, cedar and oak — and there the town of 
Hartford v/as started. 

The nearest store being nearly 100 miles dis- 




SETH PEASE. 



SETTLING— 1796-1S21. 9 

tant, a goodly assortment of household and farm- 
ing utensils were carried in their few wagons to 
their new home, and they must have been as won- 
derfully stowed away as were the innumerable 
articles said to have been brought over in the 
Mayflower, for there wxre family supplies of axes, 
hatchets, chisels, saws, files, wedges, gimlets, 
scraps of iron, etc. ; of stools, cushions, table-lin- 
en, cups, saucers, poringers, candlesticks, feather- 
beds, pillows, blankets, coverlids, bed-linen, 
knives, spoons, pewter and wooden dishes, pots, 
kettles, skillets, frying-pans, skimmers, mortars, 
pestles; pewter, leather and glass bottles, shovels, 
tongs, ploughshares, scythes, hoes, saddles, har- 
nesses, pieces of cloths, bundles of leather, paper, 
corn, peas, oats, butter, cheese, arms and ammu- 
nition, together with all their wearing apparel. 
Apparently enough to fill a freight train of today. 
Other settlers followed, and when the three 
towns, Windsor, Hartford and Wethersfield, on 
the 24th of January, 1639, formed themselves in- 
to a distinct commonwealth with a constitution 
of its own, they claimed dominion over the land 
reaching from sea to sea (between parallels 41- 
42). But as they could not use the vast realm 
they claimed and had considerately named for 
the Indian Quon-eh-ta-cut, who reigned over the 
land when the first white invader arrived, they 
were not greatly troubled when a few years later 
New York claimed a large section of their pos- 
sessions on the West. 



10 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

In a surprisingly short time the principal places 
along the river were settled; the log-cabins were 
replaced by substantial frame-houses, each with 
its huge stone chimney rising boldly through the 
center, affording great open fireplaces on four 
sides, and serving to strengthen the whole struct- 
ure. The kitchen was the living-room, wherein 
the family cooked, spun, ate, and often slept. The 
parlor frequently contained a bed for guests, and 
was truly a guest's room, being seldom opened 
for families' use or pleasure, and was generally 
the dreariest place in the house. 

The bedsteads and chests of drawers were the 
important articles of furniture in every house, 
where everything was neat and simple, but sub- 
stantial. When the hand on the sundials indi- 
cated the hour of their daily meals the men 
washed up in the lean-to sheds and with the relish 
of a good conscience and a greatful heart partook 
of the meat, turnips, Indian-corn and molasses 
provided for them, drinking copiously from the 
jugs of home-made beer or cider to be found on 
every table in those days. 

In the treaty of peace of 1783 England ceded 
to the United States land she had taken from 
France twentv years previous, which was most 
of that now covered by the States of Ohio, Indi- 
ana, Illinois, Michigan, Wisconsin and Min- 
nesota. It was a wilderness of no great value to 
either, so far as was then known, and occupied 



SETTLING— 1796-1821. 11 

by over 60,000 Indians. Later, Connecticut re- 
signed to the Federal Government her claim to 
her western land, reserving only a tract 120 miles 
long of 3,800,000 acres (between parallel 41 de- 
grees and Lake Erie), which became known as 
the Connecticut, and later as the Western Re- 
serve. 

Half a million acres situated in the western 
part of this reserved land she divided among those 
of her citizens in Danbury, Fairfield, Norwalk, 
New London and Groton, whose homes had been 
burned by the British, and it became known as the 
Firelands. The remaining 3,300,000 acres of 
this almost worthless "patch of woodland" she 
sold in 1795 to some wealthy men forming the 
Connecticut Land Co. for $1,200,000, which she 
set aside as a fund for the use of her public 
schools. The company conveyed their interests 
to three trustees, John Cadwell, John Morgan and 
Jonathan Brace, and the general management of 
afifairs was vested in a board of seven directors, 
Oliver Phelps, Henry Champion, Moses Cleave- 
land, Samuel W. Johnson, Ephraim Kirby, Sam- 
uel Mather, Jr., and Roger Newbury. 

In 1796, on the 12th of May, Moses Cleaveland 
was commissioned "to go on to said land as Su- 
perintendent over agents and men sent to survey 
and make locations on said land, and to make 
and enter into friendly negotiations with the na- 
tives who are on said lands," etc. 



12 HISTORY OP CLEVELAND. 

Moses Cleaveland was born at Canterbury, 
Conn., January 29, 1754, and was 42 years of age 
when he received his commission. He was a 
graduate of Yale College, a lawyer by profession, 
and had served as a Captain of the Sappers and 
Miners in the U. S. Army. 

The name Cleaveland is said to be of Saxon 
origin, signifying clefts or cleves — open fissures 
in hard clay soil — and Moses Cleaveland was 
destined to open fissures in a densely-wooded 
soil 450 miles distant, cleaving the way for an im- 
migration such as was never before known. 

One hundred and sixty years after the settle- 
ment of Connecticut many of the children and 
grandchildren of its settlers repeated the experi- 
ences of their ancestors by becoming the pioneers 
of the Western Reserve, and 100 years ago, on 
Friday, the 22d of July, 1796, Moses Cleaveland, 
with a few of his surveyors, entered the Cuyahoga 
River, and landed on the eastern bank near its 
entrance into the lake. They climbed the steep 
bank and traversed the open field to where the 
statue of Moses Cleaveland now stands on the 
Public Square, where it is said the leader of the 
surveyors decided that he had found an admirable 
site for a settlement. 

There were 50 members of the first surveying 
party, including tzvo zuomen. Four divisions of 
the party left Conneaut after celebrating the 
Fourth of July, 1796, to survey the new lands, 



SETTLING— 1796-1821. 13 

working their way to the Cuyahoga River, which 
for a Avhile was their headquarters. 

Job P. Stiles and his wife are thought to have 
come with Moses Cleaveland in the first party. 
The family remained at Cleveland during the win- 
ter in charge of the stores, although the surveying 
party wintered at Conneaut. 

Try as we may, it is impossible to conceive of 
the Cleaveland of a century ago! The best we 
can do is to form a picture for ourselves from the 
little there is to be gleaned from a few authentic 
sources. 

In an old journal it is stated that "The Caya- 
hoga empties into Lake Erie by a mouth 80 yards 
wide, and is navigable for sloops for fifteen miles 
without any falls or swift water; but there is a bar 
at the mouth like that of Grand River, In high 
water it is boatable sixty miles to the portage, 
which is seven and a half miles to the head waters 
of the Tuscarawa branch of the Muskingum." 
The same writer informs us that "here are fine 
uplands, extensive meadows, oak and mulberry 
trees fit for ship building, and walnut, chestnut 
and poplar trees suitable for domestic services," 
and that "near the mouth of this river are the 
celebrated rocks which project over the lake. 
They are several miles in length and rise fort}^ or 
fifty feet perpendicular out of the water. Some 
parts of them consist of several strata of different 
colours, lying in a horizontal direction, and so 



14 HISTORY OP CLEVELAND. 

exactly parallel that they resemble the work of 
art." He also states that "the heathen Indians, 
when the pass this impending danger, offer a sac- 
rifice of tobacco to the river." 

The mouth of the river, which the Indians 
called Cayahoga, meaning crooked, was then far 
to the west of where it is now, and the channel was 
so filled with sand that people could jump across 
without any difficulty. 

On the west side was a fine grove covering 
four or five acres, high on a bluff. 

The Seneca Indians had their camping grounds 
on the east side. The Ottawas, Delawares and 
Chippewas on the west, but they were all in- 
clined to be friendly until possessed by the demon 
found in the fire-water offered them by their 
white neighbors. 

Seth Pease and Amos Spafford on their ar- 
rival surveyed the locality into city lots, covering 
in all an area a mile square, extending from the 
river to a little east of Erie Street, and from the 
lake south to Ohio Street. Broad, now Superior, 
was then the widest street known, and led from 
Erie to Water Street. Superior Lane afterward 
led from it to the river. By the original chart of 
"the town and village of Cleaveland, Ohio, Oc- 
tober 1st, 1796," we find that the surveyors had 
laid out the Public Square with Ontario, Supe- 
rior — (as Broad Street was soon called) — Huron, 
Erie, Lake, Water, Union, Mandrake, Vineyard, 



SETTLING— 1796-1821. 15 

Federal, Bath, Miami, Maiden and Ohio Streets, 
14 in all, together with 220 lots of 2 acres each. 
City lots brought about $50 at first, but a few 
years later the price went down to $25. 

A lot was selected near what is now Ontario 
and Prospect Streets for a burying ground. Pease 
wrote of it thus: 

"Sunday, June 4, (1797). This morning selected 
a piece of land for a burying ground, the north 
parts of lots 97-98; and attended the funeral of 
the deceased with as much decency and solemnity 
as could possibly be expected. Mr. Hart (the 
chaplain) read church service. The afternoon 
was devoted to washing." 

The deceased referred to was David Eldridge, 
whose remains now lie beneath a simple, recum- 
bent, stone tablet near the entrance of the Erie 
Street Cemetery. 

The survey was completed in October, 1796, 
when lot No. 7 was formerly named Cleaveland in 
honor of the leader, and four white people be- 
came residents of the new town. These were 
Job Stiles and his wife, Tabitha Cumi Stiles, Ed- 
ward Paine and Joseph Landon. 

The journal of Milton Holley reads thus : 
"Monday, Oct. 17, 1796. Finished surveying 
in New Connecticut; weather rainy. Tuesday, 
October 18, we left Cuyahoga at 3 o'clock 17 min- 
utes, for Home. We left at Cuyahoga Job Stiles 
and wife, ana Joseph Landon, with provisions 



16 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

for the winter." Landon left soon after, overtak- 
ing the others at Btififalo. There were 14 men 
on board the returning boat, including Seth 
Pease, Amzi Atwater and Milton Holley, whose 
journals are full of interest. 

Mrs. Tabitha Cumi Stiles held the exalted posi- 
tion of the first lady in the land during the winter 
of 1796. The Stiles log-cabin was built before 
the departure of the surveyors. It stood on the 
hill north of Superior Street, about half way be- 
tween the Square and Water Street. Their near- 
est white neighbor was at Conneaut, a distance 
of over 68 miles by the trail. It is generally be- 
lieved that a child was born in this cabin during 
the winter and entrusted to the ''kind nursery" of 
some friendly squaw. 

On May 2d, 1797, Lorenzo Carter and his fam- 
ily arrived. They came from Rutland, Vt., the 
previous autumn, wintering in Canada. In June 
the Kingsburys arrived from Conneaut, *James 
and his wife, Eunice Waldo Kingsbury, and their 
three little ones, a girl aged three years and two 
boys of two and one years respectively. 

In Mr. Kingsbury's Journal are the following 
entries: "James Kingsbury set out; State New 
Hampshire June 9, 1796." 

"Tuesday, August 16, 1796, arrived at Coneat, 
New Connecticut, Lake Erie." 



*The grandfather of James Kingsbury came to America wilh 
Governor Winslow. 



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SETTLING— 1796-1821. 17 

At Buftalo this adventurous family met Moses 
Cleaveland and accompanied him to Conneaut, 
wnere they remainea "during the winter. Their 
journey occupied 68 days, being made partly on 
horseback and partly by such craft as plied the 
waters in those days — flat-bottomed boats that 
would not stand the severe storms. 

They brought with them the few household ar- 
ticles that were necessary, together with a cow, 
a horse and a yoke of oxen. During the first 
winter they occupied a log-hut erected by the 
surveyors at Conneaut. 

Mrs. Kingsbury was 27 years old the. day they 
arrived — and we all know the story of her first 
winter in the new country, of her husband's re- 
turn to New Hampshire, of his prolonged ab- 
sence because of his illness, of her giving birth to 
a child v/hich died of starvation one Sunday morn- 
ing a few weeks later, and of its father's return 
that same day just as the sun was sinking in the 
west, when he, with their three-year-old daughter, 
proceeded to bury the babe, never dreaming of 
the honor to be accorded him in later years as the 
first zvhite child born on the Reserve. 

On their arrival at Cleaveland they were given 
a log trading-hut on the West Side, probably 
near what is now the corner of Center and 
Main Streets. This hut was found here by the 
surveyors, and was thought to have been erected 
by the English as early as 1786. 



IS HISTORY OP CLEVELAND. 

A new cabin was soon made ready for the 
King-sburys on or near the site of the present 
Case Block, where they resided a few months, 
and in the autumn removed to Newburgh. Two 
valuable letters are in the possesion of the family. 
One was written by Judge Kingsbury's father and 
addressed to ''Major James Kingfbury at New 
Connecticut, to be put into the poft-office at Can- 
adarquay and Delivered to Mr. Jofeph Landing, 
who will call for it about the firft of April." 

The other is from Mrs. Kingsbury to her hus- 
band after her journey home to N. H. dated July 
15, 1818, telling of the hearty welcome she re- 
ceived from all the family, and of the journey 
which she had made by wagon, in company with a 
relative. The postage on this precious epistle 
was 25 cents. 

In the year 1797 there was a choice circle of 
women residing in Cleveland. These were Mrs. 
Stiles, Mrs. Kingsbury, Mrs. Gunn, Mrs. Carter, 
Mrs. Hawley and Miss Cloe Inches, the maid- 
help of the Carters, who became the first bride 
on the Reserve. 

There were ten white children: five Carters, 
three Kingsburys, one Gunn and one Hawley. 
The first settlers were all young people with 
young children. 

In January, 1798, at a meeting held at Hart- 
ford, it was resolved that/'Whereas, the Directors 
have given to Tabitha Cumi Stiles, wife of Job 



SETTLING— 1796-1821. 19 

P. Stiles, one city lot, one ten-acre lot, and one 
one-hundred-acre lot; to Anna Gunn, wife of 
Elijah Gunn, one one-hundred-acre lot; to 
James Kingsbury and wife, one one-hundred- 
acre lot; to Nathaniel Doan, one city lot, he being 
obHged to reside thereon as a blacksmith, and all 
in the city and town of Cleaveland. Voted that 
these grants be approved." Thus early in the 
settlement of Cleaveland did woniem become 
land-ozvners. 

Connecticut is termed the Mother of the Re- 
serve, but Vermont furnished the first residents, 
Job Stiles and wife, and New Hampshire and 
Vermont its earliest settlers. 

On the side of the hill near where the Bethel 
now stands Lorenzo Carter built his log-cabin, 
which became a place of marked importance in 
after years, as it was within its walls that the first 
wedding occurred on the Fourth of July, 1802, 
when Chloe Inches became the wife of William 
Clement. It was in that cabin the first school 
was opened in 1802. It was there the first ball 
was held, on the Fourth of July, 1801. This ball 
was attended by Gilman Bryant and Miss Doan, 
who had recently arrived at Doan Corners. He 
was 17; she, about 14 years of age. He was 
dressed in a gingham suit with his hair queued 
with black ribbon, and rubbed with a piece of 
candle and then powdered with flour; a pair of 
brogans and a wool hat completed his costume. 



20 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

The young lady secured her fresh cahco dress 
to the horse's back before she, in her under- 
petticoat, mounted the horse behind her escort 
and started for Carter's ball-room. There were 
some 10 women and 15 or 20 men present to en- 
joy the pork and beans, the plum-cake and the 
sling made of whiskey and maple sugar, which 
were served as refreshments. In the little room 
with walls ornamented with deerhorns and shoot- 
ing irons the merry com.pany danced on the 
puncheon floor until broad dayhght. 

It was in that same cabin that the first prisoner 
was held in bondage, and in fact, it was in Carter's 
cabin that nearly every meeting and occasion of 
interest took place during the first few years of 
Cleaveland's history. 

During the five years succeeding that of 1796 
there arrived twelve families and several single 
men, and men without their wives. These scat- 
tered over the township. The Doans, who fig- 
ured largely in town affairs, came in 1798 — aftet 
being 92 days in coming from Connecticut — and 
settled at Doan Corner. 

As the ague came to prevail along the river, 
most of the families moved inland on to higher 
land, so that after the Doans removed east to 
the Corner in 1799, Carters was the only white 
family in Cleaveland from January until April, 
1800, a period of 15 months. 

Mr. Kingsbury removed to Newburgh in De- 




JUDGE KINGSBURY. 



SETTLING— 1796-1821. 21 

cember, 1797, where he afterward raised the first 
frame-house in the township. It was a ^rand 
affair for those times, and is still standing, al- 
though it was partially destroyed by fire in the 
winter of 1895. 

While living in their log-cabin at Newburgh, 
Mrs. Kingsbury had to again endure the pangs 
of hunger. Her husband left her one morning 
crying for food for herself and little ones. He 
took his gun and went out, Macawber like, bid- 
ding her "cheer up; something will turn up." 
He soon returned with a large rattlesnake which 
he had shot, and which he proceeded to cook for 
his hungry ones, at the same time assuring his 
wife that he knew "something would turn up." 

In the spring of 1799 Wheeler W. Williams, 
of Norwich, Conn., arrived and settled at New- 
burgh, erecting a cabin there. It was always a 
merry occasion when a cabin was raised. The 
neighbors from miles around would come to lend 
a hand, and usually finished the job in a single 
day. Their "women-folks" meanwhile would 
assist the housewife by quilting for her, and when 
the day's work was over all would join in a 
dance. When a fiddler and a fiddle could be se- 
cured it was so much the merrier, although a very 
jolly affair even when they danced to the song 
of the dancers, or the whistle of the gay gallants. 

Henry Woods, in his very interesting narrative, 
relates the story of one of Newburgh's festivities. 



22 HISTORY OF CLEVELiAND. 

It seems that the young men agreed to get the 
girls together at the tavern and have a dance, but 
as he stated ''fiddlers were scarce." One had 
lately arrived from the East whom they agreed 
to take along, however. When he was inter- 
viewed they found that he was at their "sarvace," 
but that his fiddle was on the other side of the 
Cuyahoga River. Woods and his companion 
attempted to build a raft of loose sticks, which 
did not prove a success, then Woods decided to 
swim across. It was in April. The river was 
high and its water icy cold. Woods took oft 
his clothes — as he says, "except my shirt and 
pants, and they were linen," and swam across the 
river where he ''found the fiddle in a brush 
shanty." Another _ difficulty awaited him; he 
could find nothing with which to bind the fiddle 
on his head to keep it above the water. So he 
was obliged to follow down the river-side nearly 
a mile to find a shallow part where he could cross, 
the "nettles hurting his bare-feet" all the while. 
Norton, his companion, followed on the opposite 
shore with his wearing apparel, and had the 
good fortune to come across a stray horse, 
which he mounted, riding him through 
the river, returning with Woods and the 
precious fiddle. Unfortunately Mr. Woods has 
left no account of the dance. But he has given us 
an account of his going for Dr. Long, of Cleave- 
land, in the year 1810, when he was staying at his 



SETTLING— 1796-1821. 23 

father's cabin at Tinker's Creek. "A widow 
woman" had met with an accident requiring med- 
ical aid, and the lad was sent for the nearest phy- 
sician, 12 miles distant, six miles being through a 
dense wood. The night was dark and the road 
muddy. His narrative reads as follows: 

"The folks furnished me with a good horse and 
an old-fashioned tin lantern and a candle. I 
burnt the candle, all of it, going through the 
woods. I found the doctor, but he would not go 
that night, so I had to stay all night. In the 
morning we started, and when we came to six- 
mile woods the road was froze, so that it was very 
bad travehng for a horse, and the doctor leff his 
horse at Erastus Miles' tavern, and went the six 
miles and back on foot." 

Mr. Williams was soon settled in his new cabin, 
and then he proceeded to erect a flouring mill, 
which was the first one on the Reserve, and of 
which Judge Barr has written as follows: 

"An apology for a grist had been erected near 
Cleaveland, which enjoyed a complete monopoly, 
having no competition within a hundred miles, 
and which gave general satisfaction, as few had 
anything to grind." Its completion was the oc- 
casion of great festivity. 

Mr. Williams erected a saw-mill during the 
following year (1800), which was the first on the 
Reserve, and in consideration that he would im- 
mediately construct and put in operation these 



24 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

mills, the Connecticut Land Company gave 
'Mr. Williams 100 acres of land, including his mill 
sites and much of the land now covered by the 
village of Newburgh, with provisions for himself 
and family for one year, $100 in cash, and all the 
castings essential to the construction of his mills. 

Mr. David Bryant and his son Oilman made 
a pair of grindstones for the new flour mill on 
the right-hand side of the stream about half a 
mile from the mill, and if I am rightly informed, 
it is one of them that now rests at the N. E. corner 
of the N. W. section of the Public Square. 

The same year, 1800, the first schoolhouse in 
Cleaveland tozvnship was built near the home of 
Judge Kingsbury in Newburgh, the school being 
taught by Miss Sara Doan. 

The year 1811 opened with a public ball. John 
and Benjamin Wood and R. Blinn were man- 
agers. I quote again from Mr. Wood's valuable 
narrative. A number of young people had ar- 
rived at Independence, on Tinker's Creek flats, 
and as Mr. Woods states, *'We all got an invita- 
tion to the New Year's ball. There was no bug- 
gies in them days and very few wagons in those 
early times ; so we hitched up a two-horse wagon, 
and on the first day of January, 1811, four young 
men beside myself and three girls got into the 
wagon and started for Cleaveland. We had six 
miles woods to go through in the start, and the 
roads bad, but we got through safe, and went into 



SETTLING— 1796-1821, 25 

to the city. There was then four frame houses 
in Cleaveland. The house where the ball was 
held was not a frame house, it was of hewed logs, 
two stories high and sided upon the outside and 
lath and plaster on the inside, but it was a very 
good room for a new country. It belonged to 
Major Carter. We staid all night and started in 
the morning." Mr. Woods states that when 
about a quarter of a mile within the six miles 
wood the wagon broke down. Two of the young 
men took a horse each, and with the harnesses 
still on they mounted with a girl behind them — 
the three girls taking turns at riding — and so 
proceeded homeward. 

Early in the years 1809 or 1810 the mail was 
carried over the long route of post-towns by 
Gairns Burke, a lad of 14, and his brother, their 
father having taken the contract. Mr. Burke 
states that the route was from Cleaveland through 
Hudson, Stow, Ravenna, Deerfield, Warren, 
Messopotamia, Winsor, Jefferson, Austinburg, 
Harpersfield, Painesville, back to Cleaveland, 
over a road full of underbrush and from 15 to 20 
miles without a cabin or building of any sort. 
The rivers and streams were without bridges. In 
summer and in favorable weather they; went on 
horseback. At other times they made the trip 
afoot, going once a week for three successive 
years. This could have been no pleasant trip for 
the brothers, as the woods were then full of wild 
animals. 



26 HISTORY OF CL,EVEL,AND. 

Amzi Atwater, one of the first surveying 
party, closes his journal with "a short account of 
the Beasts, Birds, Reptiles and Insects found in 
New Connecticut," from which I quote a few 
sentences : 'There are Ells plenty in some parts 
of the purchase. Deer are pretty plenty towards 
the south side of the country, but they are a great 
part of them destroyed by the Wolves. They are 
a creature that are very plenty in this country. 
Bears are very plenty towards the South part of 
the country. There appears to be Beaver and 
Muskrats in some places. Racoons are very 
plenty about the lake. One or two panthers were 
seen on this country. Squirrels are very plenty 
on all parts of the Country; they are both black 
and gray. I saw one rabbit which was the 
onderly one that I either saw or heard of. Hedge- 
hogs are most remarkable creatures that I took 
notice of during the time that I staie in the coun- 
try. A large hedgehog will weigh about 20 
pounds. His body is very short and thick, (here 
follows a very quaint drawing of the creature, 
showing that the surveyor was not an artist), his 
head and nose round, his ears short and round, 
his legs short, his toes and claws are very long, 
his tail is about six inches long and very thick 
toward the rump but gradually lessens toward 
the end. This animal is very curiously armed 
with quills that are hard and hollow. They are 
about 2| inches in length in the back and sides, 
but much shorter on the head and tail. 



SETTLING— 1796-1821. 27 

"In the woods are plenty of Turkies, some Patt- 
ridges, and Quails and a plenty of Pidgions. Owls 
are very plenty in all parts of the country." 

* * hj * * * 

Mr. Atwater states that he found ''eagles on 
the lake shore," and that ''the flesh of rattle- 
snakes, if it can be eaten without prejudice, is 
extraordinary good food. It is white and tender 
like fish." 

Among the large collection of wolf papers still 
extant are the following certificates: 

"Cleaveland, March 2d, 1815. 

Personally appeared Alonzo Carter of Cleave- 
land in said county before me and pro- 
duced the scalp of a full grown wolf and being 
sworn according to Law is entitled to the sum of 
four Dollars bounty from the State. 

Horace Perry, Jus. Peace. 

State of Ohio, 
Cuyahoga County." 

"This certifies that Lorenzo Nalley has pro- 
duced to me the scalp of a wild wolf over the age 
of six months proven according to Law for which 
he is entitled to receive from the State of Ohio 
the sum of $4.00 as per act of the Leg. 

Theodore Miles, J. P. 
Newburgh, April 8, 1819." 

These speak for themselves. 

At the close of the year 1811 — spring of 1812 — 



28 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

the town was settled as follows, according to a 
written statement still extant: 

''I will begin North of Kingsbury's creek, on 
what is now Broadway. The first was Maj. Sam- 
uel Jones on the hill near the turn of the road; 
farther down came Judge John Walworth, then 
postmaster, and his oldest son, Ashbel W. Wal- 
worth, and son-in-law Dr. David Long. Then 
on the corner of where the Forest City House now 
stands was a Mr. Moreys. The next was near 
the now American House, where the little Post- 
office building then stood, and Mr. Hanchet, who 
had just started a little store. Close by was a 
tavern kept by Mr. George Wallace. Then on 
the top of the hill. North of Main Street, was Lor- 
enzo Carter and son, Alonzo, who kept Tavern 
also. The only house below, on Water Street 
and Superior Street, was Nathan Perry's store, 
likewise his brother, Horace Perry, who lived 
near by. Levi Johnson began in Cleaveland 
about that time, likewise two brothers of his came 
soon after, Benjamin, a one-legged man, I think 
the other's name was John. The first and last was 
lake Capt. for a time. Abram Hicox, the old 
blacksmith, Alfred Kelley, Esq., who boarded 
with Esq. Walworth at this time. Then Mr. 
Bailey, also Elias and Harvey Murray, and per- 
haps a very few others in town, not named. Then 
on now Euclid Avenue from Monumental Square 
through the Wood to East Cleveland was but one 



o 

w 
o 
> 




SETTLING— 1796-1821. 29 

man, who lived in a small shanty with a trifle of 
a clearing around him, and near the now Euclid 
Station, Nathan Chapman, who after died there. 
Then at what was called Doan Corners lived two 
famihes only, Nathaniel, the older, and Major 
Seth Doan. Then on the South, now Woodland 
Hills Avenue, we first came to Richard Blinn, 
Rhodolphus Edwards, and Mr. Stephens (a 
school teacher), Mr. Honey, James Kingsbury, 
David Burras, Eben Hosmer, John Wightman, 
Wm. W. Williams and three sons, Frederick, 
Wm. W. and Joseph; next on (now Carter pi.) 
Philamon Baldwin and sons; Philamon, Amos, 
Caleb and Runa; next, James Hamilton, then 
Samuel Hamilton (who was drowned on the lake 
a little before), his widow and three sons, Chester, 
Preston, Samuel, Jr. At then, or rather since, 
called Newburgh, and now Cleveland, five by the 
name of Miles; Erasmus, Theodore, Samuel, 
Thompson and David. Widow White with five 
sons, John, William, Solomon, Samuel and 
Simon; Mr. Barnes, Henry Edwards, Allen Gay- 
lord, father and mother. Spring of 1812 came 
Noble Bates, Ephraim and Jedidiah Hubbel with 
their old father and mother (the two latter died 
soon), in both families several sons; Stephen 
Gilbert, Silvester Burke with six sons, Abner 
Cochran; now on what is called Aetna Street, 
Esq. Samuel S. Baldwin was sheriff and county 
surveyor, and also hung the noted Indian, John 



30 HISTORY OP CLEVELAND. 

O. Mic, in 1812; next Y. L. Morgan; then 
three sons, Y. L., Jr., Caleb, J. A. Morgan; the 
next, now Broadway Avenue, Dyer Sherman, 
Christopher Gunn, EHjah Gunn, Charles and 
Elijah Jr. Gunn " 

The manuscript comes to a sudden close, but 
probably completes the circuit of roads on which 
stood the log-cabins and the three or four frame 
houses of the residents of Cleveland, for when 
the war of 1812 broke out there were but "67 
white families living on the 12 mile Square Re- 
serve," and the population of Cleveland was little 
over 57 souls. 

A library association was formed in 1811, hav- 
ing 16 members, constituting one-fourth of the 
entire population. The librarian's book for 1811- 
1812 contains the names of the most prominent 
families of the village. From it we learn that in 
July, 1811, Lorenzo Carter took out "Goldsmith's 
Greece," and "Don Quixote," and that he re- 
tained them until he had a line of $1 to pay on 
each. 

Under the same date James Kingsbury took 
out "Lives of the English Poets," "History of 
Rome," "Art and Nature," and one other, the 
name of which is not to be discerned at this late 
day. These facts are of interest, as showing the 
line of reading selected by two of Cleveland's 
most prominent men of those times. 

During the war of 1812, and the campaigns 



SETTLING— 1796-1821. 31 

following it, Cleveland was an important military 
headquarter, and as many of the little band of 
settlers served in the militia fresh anxieties were 
added to those constantly endured by these fam- 
ilies. 

At the time of Hull's surrender a scout entered 
the town reporting a large body of English and 
Indians to be coming down the lake, and for a 
while the wildest excitement prevailed. Many 
of the families seized what few valuables they 
could carry with them — burying others — and on 
horseback or afoot made their way inland, seek- 
ing a place of safety. 

Three fearless women, Mrs. John Walworth, 
her daughter, Mrs. Dr. Long, and Mrs. Wallace, 
refused to leave their homes. 

Mrs. Walworth was the same intrepid woman 
who made the journey from Cleveland to Led- 
yard, Ct., in the year 1807 alone, on horseback. 
She was about 37 years of age and made the 
journey through the wilderness in safety, and it 
is stated her horse suffered so little from fatigue 
that it ran away the next morning, when her 11- 
year-old brother attempted riding it to water. 

A gentleman, who was very ill at the time Hull's 
surrender, was carried on a feather bed that was 
strapped over a horse's back, through the woods 
from Newburgh to Doan Corners. He stood 
the journey far better than the feather bed did, 
for that was torn to shreds by the bushes, and 
the feathers given to the wind. 



32 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

The few settlers at Doan Corners proceeded to 
the settlement at Euclid, a few miles further east, 
where they arrived in a state of great consterna- 
tion. Mr. Colman, of Euclid, remarked, ''Now 
I think, neighbors, there's no danger. You all 
stay here and I'll go into Cleveland and see what 
the fuss is." Leaving his sick wife and their 
new-born infant in care of these friends, he pro- 
ceeded with all possible speed to the village. The 
firing on the island could be distinctly heard, and 
the group of settlers decided to move on toward 
Willoughby. One man remained to protect Mrs. 
Colman, while the rest pushed on. The people 
experienced a night of terrible fear and suspense 
from what proved to be a false alarm. At the close 
of the war there was a general jollification in 
town. The people gathered on the Square, and 
with plenty of whiskey and no care for an^lhing 
but to give vent to their joy, they had a wild, 
hilarious time. The blacksmith. Uncle Abrani 
Hicox, was loading up an old gun by throwing 
the powder in from a pail by the handful, when 
a spark from a fire-brand, prepared to touch it 
ofT, fell into the pail, sending the impromptu 
gunner off instead. He was thrown high into 
the air, receiving scars that lasted him for life, 
losing most of his clothmg, but not his life. 

In May, 1813, Capt. Stanton Sholes and his 
company arrived by order of the War Depart- 
ment. There were several companies already 



SETTLING— 17&6-1S2L 33 

in town prepared to defend it, and to establish 
a militarv' post, Capt. Sholes has recorded that on 
his arrival Gov. Meigs took him to a place where 
his company could pitch their tents. He then 
proceeds thus: "I foimd no place of defense, 
no hospital, and a forest of large timber (mostly 
chestnut) between the lake and the lake road. 
There was a road that turned off between Mr. 
Perry's and Maj. Carter's that went to the point, 
which was the only place that the lake could be 
seen from the buildings." He also informs us 
that, "At my arrival I fotmd a niunber of sick and 
wounded who were of Hvdl's surrender, sent here 
from Detroit, and more coming. These were 
crowded into a log-cabin, and no one to take care 
of them, as they had no friends. I had two or 
three good carpenters in my company and set 
them to work to build a hospital. I ver\- soon 
got up a good one, thirtv- by twenr\- feet, smoothly 
and tightly covered, and floored with chestnut 
bark, with two tiers of bunks aroimd the walls, 
with doors and windows and not a nail, a screw, 
or iron latch or hinge about the building. Its 
cost to the government was a few extra rations. 
In a short time I had all the bunks well-strawed, 
and clean, to their great joy and comfort, but 
some had fallen asleep." 

The fact of this hospital costing the govern- 
ment nothing more than a few extra rations is 
quite as curious as that it was built \s-ithout nails 
or screws. 



*!% 



34 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

Capt. Sholes then erected a small fort about 
150 feet from the bank of the lake, in the forest, 
with a breast-work of logs and brush. The Brit- 
ish fleet approached to destroy the station and 
the government boats building in the river, but 
wxre driven back by a severe storm. 

Notwithstanding the troubled times along the 
lake frontier, Cleveland continued to thrive. The 
village was incorporated December 23d, 1814, 
with Alfred Kelley for its first president, and 
Alonzo Carter its treasurer. The Pier Company 
soon after built a landing at the lake, and in 1818 
the magnificent steamer Walk-in-the- Water en- 
tered the harbor of Cleveland bound from Buffalo 
to Detroit. She was 300 tons burthen, with 100 
cabin and greater steerage accommodations, and 
a sailing power of 8-10 miles an hour. 

The mouth of the Cuyahoga had been made 
a port of entry as early as 1805, and the postmaster 
served as the Collector of Customs. If his cus- 
tom receipts equalled his post office receipts 
at that time his duties could not have been bur- 
densom.e, for it is recorded that for the first quar- 
ter of the year 1806 they amounted to $2.83. 

It has been said that the pioneers of the West- 
ern Reserve came with a school in one pocket 
and a church in another. If so, they were a long 
while in emptying their pockets, for the school- 
house did not appear in Cleveland village until 
the year 1817, when one was begun on St. Clair 



SETTLING— 1796-1S21. 33 

Street, east of the present Kennard House, which 
was finished in 1821. It became known as the 
"Old Academy." This first school was free to 
children whose parents could not assist in its 
support. 

In Lorenzo Carter's *'Legor," a ponderous vol- 
ume which has its first entry on December 18, 
1808, and contains the record of several years, I 
find that in 1814 he ''paid F. Williams for school- 
ing $3.75" for Mary's tuition, but for how long a 
term is not stated. There are frequent entries 
for the tuition of Mary and Betsy. 

The pioneers did, indeed, take a thought for 
what they considered to be their spiritual welfare, 
erecting a distillery as early as 1800, but religious 
interests were not awakened until a later day. 

The Rev. Joseph Badger delivered a sermon 
in 1800, but he found very little to encourage 
him here. Mr. Badger was an itinerant preacher, 
and in later years made occasional rounds of the 
new settlements. Gradually the interest in- 
creased, and through the efforts of some of the 
women regular services were held in the houses, 
and occasionally a preacher would come. In the 
"Legor" of Major Carter, from which I have 

quoted, are several entries of "Paid to Priest 

for preaching, $1.00." 

A church was erected in 1817 in Euclid, which 
has recently been taken down to give place to a 
modern structure. This was the first church, 



36 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND, 

and served for all sects. On the 9th of Novem- 
ber, 1816, Trinity Parish was organized in Cleve- 
land. In 1820 a few people formed a society and 
engaged the Rev. Randolph Stone, of Ashtabula 
County, to devote one-third of his time to preach- 
ing in Cleveland. Both of these societies met in 
private houses, and from 1820-1822 Trinity Par- 
ish was in Brooklyn, where the greater number of 
its members resided. 

On Friday, the 31st of July, 1818, there ap- 
peared the first number of the first newspaper 
published here. It was entitled "The Cleaveland 
Gazette and Commercial Register," with this sen- 
timent, "Where Liberty Dwells, there is My 
Country" as a heading to the first page of 
-four columns. 

It was edited by Mr. A. Logan, and appeared 
weekly, or in 10,12 or 15 days, as suited the editor. 
There were four pages, the first having a strangely 
familiar aspect to a reader of today, for in its 
second column appears the well-known heading 
of "Shocking Murder," followed by that equally 
familiar one of "The Sea-Serpent Again." Some- 
where off the coast of Maine, where the serpent 
seems to have been sporting ever since, appear- 
ing periodically to astonished seamen. Among 
the anecdotes, the spice required to tempt the 
dainty readers, occurs the following one: 

"An Irishman was lately brought before a jus- 
tice, charged with marrying six wives. The 



SETTLING— 1796-1821. 37 

Magistrate asked him how he could be so hard- 
ened a villain? 'Please, your worship/ says 
Paddy, 'I was trying to — to get a good one.' " 

During the year following there appeared "The 
Cleaveland Herald," published at Cleaveland, 
Ohio, Tuesday, October 19, 1819, by Z. Willes 
& Co., directly opposite the Commercial Coffee 
House, Superior Street." Most of the articles in 
these early newspapers are selections from Eng- 
lish magazines, and from back numbers at that. 
In the first number of the Herald is the latest 
news from England, received by letter from New 
York under date of September 20, reporting the 
arrival ''of Schooner Athens in the very short 
passage of 28 days from Cork," bringing accounts 
of the riot at Manchester on August 6th. 

A later paper (May 23, 1820) contains an inter- 
esting letter written at St. Helena, stating that 
"Bonaparte, (who was in good health) sometimes 
rides out, but seems extremely desirous to shun 
observation. 

"The restrictions are unrelaxed," * * 

"Every avenue being guarded, the heights 
being crowned with guns," etc., which shows that 
the conqueror was fairly conquered. 

The first notice of any theatrical performance 
that I have found occurs in the Herald of May 
23, 1820, and shows that advertising rates were 
lower than at present, for it is very wordy. It 
goes on to state that "Mr. W. Blanchard most re- 



38 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

spectfully informs the Ladies and Gentlemen that 
this evening, May 23d, At Mr. P. Mowry's Hall, 
there will be presented the much-admired Comic 
Opera, called The Purse, or the Benevolent Tar. 
After which, a variety of Sentimental and Comic 
Songs; with An interesting scene from the Drama 
of The Stranger, together with the Farce of the 
Village Lawyer, the whole to conclude with the 
Dwarf Dance. 

"The doors will be open at 7, and the perform- 
ance to commence at 8 o'clock. Admittance 50 
cents. Children half price. 

"There will be another performance Tomorrow 
evening, the 24th inst." 

In the issue of May 31, Mr. Blanchard, "Feel- 
ing himself indebted to the citizens of Cleave- 
land," etc., "returns them his sincere thanks," 
and "begs leave to inform them that he will offer, 
for their satisfaction and amusement, on Wednes- 
day eve. May 31st, the entire Play of the 
Mountaineers, with songs, duets," etc. The 
duet of "Blue Eyed Mary" was among the at- 
tractions offered. 

As we close this brief and necessarily incom- 
plete account of the first quarter of a century of 
the history of Cleaveland, the period of settling, 
we find the township which, in 1800, embraced 
the towns of Cleaveland, Chester, Russell, Bain- 
bridge (Geauga Co.), and all of the present Cuy- 
ahoga County east of the river, together with all 



SETTLING— 1796-1821. 39 

the Indian country to the western Hne of the Re- 
serve, to have greatly decreased in its hmits, as 
counties were formed and towns estabHshed. 

Newburgh and EucHd had been set apart as 
separate towns. Many of the settlers of blessed 
memory had finished their work on earth and 
been laid to rest. Among these was Major 
Lorenzo Carter, who died February 7, 1814, in his 
47th year. His son Alonzo had already become 
somewhat prominent in the affairs of the town, 
and in later years closely identified himself with 
its interests. 

It was yet hard times with these settlers, al- 
though pioneer dangers, deprivations and doubts 
were fast giving way to settled homes, greater 
comforts and firm faith in the great city of the 
future — the Cleveland of today. 



«t^ 




40 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

Chapter II. 

1821-1846 — THE PERIOD OF KSTABLIvSIIING. 

N elderly lady once told me of her home 



a 



/ — » at the beginning of the period we are 
about to consider, which may be called 
the period of establishing. Her husband's farm 
joined that of Judge Kingsbury's, but it was more 
than ten years before she had traveled over the 
entire length of the boundary line, for there were 
310 acres in all, with only occasional clearings. 
The log-house contained one room only, in which 
there were two beds. As this lady said: *'I re- 
member one time I wanted to have some com- 
pany, so I cleaned out the fireplace and filled it 
in with green stuff, and then piled up stones out- 
side the house, where I built a fire and did the 
cooking. I hung up a curtain inside and made 
a guest's room, and had things very fine, as 1 
thought. 

"In those days we bought chair-frames and 
splint-bottomed them ourselves, and I have a 
few of our first chairs now. 

''All the way from East Cleveland to the 
city were log-houses, and it looked real cheerful 
of an evening to see the light of the open fire 
through the chinks in the logs as we went past. 

"We used to put on a pepperidge log four or 
five feet long for a back-log, and it would burn 



ESTABLISHING— 1821-1846. 41 

for a week. We generally went to bed early, for 
we had to be up early in the morning. I was 
up many a Monday morning and had my washing 
out before sunrise. When we did need to light 
up we had a saucer filled with lard, in which we 
put a button with a rag around it for a wick, just 
a square piece of cotton cloth with a cord wound 
around the ends, that gave some light, but it 
wasn't very safe carrying it about on account of 
spilling the hot grease. Some folks used talfow- 
dips, but we used the lard and rag." 

This same lady, when a girl in her teens, had 
woven 400 yards of cotton cloth during one sum- 
mer, the thread being spun at a factory near her 
home in Connecticut. 

In her new home, as in all the early homes 
here, the spinning wheel and loom held an im- 
portant place in the household economy. Wo- 
men were not trouoled with lassitude, dyspepsia 
and kindred diseases then. Wives weire true 
help-mates of their hard-working husbands. As 
an old pioneer once expressed it, women were 
help-meets instead of help-eats, and sons and 
daughters w^ere taught to live active, useful lives. 

The usual work of keeping the home tidy and 
comfortable, the spinning, weaving, sewing, cut- 
ting and making the family garments, tending 
the sheep, preparing the wool, and knitting the 
stockings for the usually large family of man 
and wife and ten or more children, gathering 



42 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

herbs for the winter's store of medicines, with 
frequent nights and days of nursing the sick in 
the neighborhood, the gathering in, paring and 
drying apples and pumpkins, the gathering of 
red clover for the year's supply of clover-tea, the 
daily beverage then, the making of lint, the filling 
of tinder-boxes, the dipping of tallow candles, the 
daily milking, churning and cheese making, to- 
gether with the manufacturing of various sup- 
plies now to be obtained of the corner grocer, 
such as yeast and yeast-cakes, saleratus, made of 
water in which the ashes of burned corn-cobs had 
been steeped, molasses and sugar from maple 
syrup, and innumerable articles of family con- 
sumption, left no waste moments. 

Then the cooking was enough to appal a 
domestic of todav! The preparing of meats and 
fowls, the baking of huge loaves of delicious 
pumpkin-bread, of Indian meal Johnny, or 
Journey-cake, of plum-cakes, of rich pies and pud- 
dings, of doughnuts and cymbals, cooked in 
bake-kettles, Dutch-ovens and skillets, in kettles 
swung on iron cranes, or on lug-poles of green 
wood, cooked over or before the blazing wood- 
fire, or in the coals on the hearth, in a manner 
unknown to the present generation. 

Honor to those busy housewives! And yet 
busy as they always were they found time to em- 
broider the dainty cap for baby number ten, 
twelve, or even fourteen, and to put into the 



ESTABLISHING— 1821-1846. 43 

home-made linen such tiny stitches and such ex- 
quisite fagoting as puts to shame the very best of 
modern seamstresses. These women! these 
early settlers of the Western Reserve, deserve to 
be known as the Eighth wonder of the world. 

My venerable friend also told me of attending 
a New Year's dance at Turney's house in 1826. 
Turney's was the first brick house erected in the 
county, and it was then a tavern of excellent rep- 
utation, kept by a Mr. Parshal. The young 
matron wore a white muslin skirt with a white 
satin bodice and sleeves. The skirt was trimmed 
with white ribbon, on which were hand-painted 
roses. Her feet were encased in blue-prunella 
slippers, so short that she remembered her dis- 
comfiture even unto her old age. The lady and 
her husband, then a gallant young couple, gath- 
ered up neighbors and friends as they drove along 
in their sleigh in the midst of a hard storm of sleet. 
One of the peculiar features of this dance was the 
marriage of a young couple at the head of a fig- 
ure. At the supper that followed the bride was 
asked what part of the chicken she would have, 
and she replied "a piece of the heart." It is to 
be hoped that her mate was not chicken-hearted. 

The work of estabHshing homes in the new 
West was now fairly begun. People who came 
from the East came prepared to remain. The 
first comers, and in fact, during the entire period 
of settling the Reserve, the heads of families 



44 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

seemed to be often in doubt as to where they had 
better finally settle. Land was plenty, and they 
no sooner had their cabin up and a small clearing 
made than another site offered greater prom- 
ise, and they would move on, frequently leaving 
clearings unharvested. 

Now, the work of establishing homes was fairly 
begun. The frame house gradually took the 
place of the log-cabin, and the plat of ground for 
the garden and forage necessary to every house- 
hold v/as enlarged to the magnitude of a farm. 

We little reaHze the strength and patience it 
took to convert the wooded, leek-covered acres 
of soil into well-cultivated fields such as have 
existed within the memory of most of us. It 
was necessary that the cattle should be provided 
with better food than browsing on the young 
undergrowth and frequently indulging in a 
mouthful or more of scrub oak leaves, which oc- 
casioned the death of many a precious cow during 
the earlier years, and there could be no good milk, 
butter or cheese while the ground continued to 
yield leeks abundantly. 

The families of this second quarter of the cen- 
tury were striving to estabHsh comfortable homes 
in the midst of good, fertile fields, and as their 
children were fast reaching men and maidenhood 
they realized the necessity of establishing 
churches and schools also. "Old Trinity," 
senior, on the corner of St. Clair and Seneca 



ESTABLISHING— 1821-1846. 45 

Streets, was consecrated on the. 12th of August, 
1829. Five years later St. John's was erected 
on the West Side. Both were objects of great 
admiration to the pubUc centered around the 
PubUc Square and on the West Side of the Cuy- 
ahoga River. 

The Episcopahans well estabhshed, the Pres- 
byterians took heart, and after worshiping in 
private houses, in the log court house, in the 
schoolhouse, in the second story of the Academy, 
and in Dr. Long's building on the site of the pres- 
ent American House, during 13 years, they were 
finally able to erect a stone building on the site 
of the present Old Stone Church edifice, which 
was dedicated February 26, 1834. 

This society had among its founders and earli- 
est members Rebeccah Carter, the widow of 
Lorenzo Carter, the pioneer, and Mrs. Juliana 
Long, and had started a Sunday School as early 
as 1819. 

The Methodists followed in the line of church^ 
raising. They organized a society in 1824 and 
erected a church on the corner of St. Clair and 
Wood Streets in 1841. 

The Baptists found a home in the old Academy 
from the date of their organization February 16, 
1833, until the completion of their church on the 
corner of Seneca and Champlain Streets in 1836, 
Theirs was considered the finest church edifice in 
the city, and cost $30,000. 



46 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

The Congregationalists organized a society 
December 27, 1834, occupying a temporary 
church building, until that on the corner of 
Detroit and State Streets was completed in 1856. 

The building of the Ohio, or Grand Canal, 
brought to Cleveland in 1826 a number of Roman 
Catholic families among its large body of labor- 
ers. Roman Catholic missionaries had visited 
various stations in Ohio during the Indian times, 
but after the white settlers arrived in 1797, until 
1817 there was no priest stationed in the territory 
now known as Ohio, which the Wyandot Indians 
called "O-he-zah," meaning the fair and beauti- 
ful. 

The Rev. John Dillon was the first resident 
priest in Cleveland, coming in 1835, and saying 
mass in private houses or elsewhere, and attend- 
ing to several stations, until he left the following 
year, when Rev. Patrick O'Dwyer succeeded 
him, and began building the first Roman Catholic 
Church in 1838. His successor, the Rev. Peter 
McLaughlin, came in 1840, finishing the church 
in 1838. His successor, the Rev. Peter Mc- 
Laughlin, came in 1840, finishing the church, 
so it was consecrated on the 7th of June of that 
year. It was a frame building, 81x53 feet, cost- 
ing $3,000, most of which sum was raised among 
Protestants at the East. It stood on the corner 
of Columbus and Girard Streets, and was known 
at first as the Church of "Our Lady of the Lake," 



ESTABLISHING— 1821-1846. 47 

but after the year 1849 it became known as "St. 
Mary's" on the Flats. 

The Roman Church seems to have been par- 
ticularly fortunate in its early pastors. They are 
always referred to by Protestants and Romanists 
alike as being earnest, hard-working and exceed- 
ingly eloquent men. 

The first Hebrew congregation was established 
in 1839 by a few Jewish families that arrived on 
the 12th of July, 1839, among whom were the 
Thormans, Loewentritts, Rosenbaums, Hofif- 
mans and others. The society held its prayer 
meetings in a hall on the corner of South Water 
Street and Vineyard Lane, Mr. Isaac Hoffman 
serving as their first minister. In 1840 they pur- 
chased an acre of land on the corner of Monroe 
and Willet Streets for a cemetery, and in 1842 
started the first of their many charitable societies, 
that of Chebrah Kadisha. 

In 1846 a second congregation was formed 
under the name of the Anshe Hesed, and two 
years later (1848) the Tififereth Israel congrega- 
tion was formed. These three societies have car- 
ried on the very extensive charity work among 
the large community of Jews that have settled 
in Cleveland, estim^ated to be over 10,000 in all, 
who have become good, law-abiding citizens. 

Most of the present population of the city be- 
long to one of the three religious divisions we 
have mentioned as now established in Cleveland, 



48 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

the Protestaht, the Roman Catholic, or the He- 
brew; and we may consider that one of the im- 
portant features of this period was the estabHshing 
of the great reHgious interests of the city. 

Schools wevQ keeping pace with the churches. 
In 1821 a two-story brick building was com- 
pleted on St. Clair Street, nearly opposite the 
little wooden, one-story structure that was built 
by subscription in 1817. The new school build- 
ing possessed a tower and a bell, and was known 
as "The Academy." The lower floor was ar- 
ranged and used for two schools. The upper 
one was used for church purposes by several de- 
nominations, as has already been stated. 

The Academy was the only school building the 
city possessed for several years. The few primary 
and other grades, or rather schools, for they were 
not generally graded in those days, contented 
themselves with such accommodations as were 
ofifered in buildings which had served as grocery 
stores, paintshops, or for others purposes. 

On the 7th of July, 1837, an ordinance was 
passed to provide for the establishing of common 
schools, and "two schools for sexes respectively 
were opened in each district, with an average at- 
tendance at each of not less than 40 pupils." 

During the winter of 1838 eight schools were 
sustained, employing 3 male and 5 female teach- 
ers, at an expense of $868.62, the male teachers 
receiving from $30 to $40 per month, and male 



ESTABLISHING— 1821-1846. 49 

and female teachers were ''boarded round" among 
the famiHes. Their seems to have been no reg- 
ular system of teaching, but each taught accord- 
ing to his or her own device, and it is highly en- 
tertaining to read of the early teachers' meetings, 
where one teacher objected to having drawing of 
maps taught, and another thought that it was 
useless teaching pupils to bound the counties in 
Ohio, and to namic the shire-towns. While an- 
other thought that the three ''r's," "reading, 
'riting and 'rithmetic," were quite sufficient for 
the pupils to study. 

Many of the teachers employed in these public 
schools were from the Eastern States, and 
brought reports of doings there that were quite 
startling. 

One gentleman teacher, upon returning from a 
visit to Massachusetts, said that "Boston pupils 
were polite, and he believed it would not hurt the 
boys of Cleveland to have their manners mended 
a little." (Please remember that this was long 
ago, and has no reference to boys of today.) The 
idea of teaching manners to boys was preposter- 
ous, but not so bad as the proposition made by an- 
other teacher, of introducing instruction in music, 
as it was then taught in the Boston schools. 

The latter was too ridiculous for human en- 
durance, and was at once declared to be illegal. 
However, Mr. Lowell Mason, of Boston, came to 
Cleveland and explained his theories of music as 



50 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

taught in the schools, and in 1S46 a trial was 
made, which proved a failure. 

The first teacher employed in the public 
schools was J\lr. R. L. Gazlay, who received a 
salary of $131.12 for the term ending September 
20, 1S36. 

There were no long- summer vacations then, 
no general exodus from city to seashore, moun- 
tains, lakeside or elsewhere. The summer term 
began on the first Monday in May. and finished 
on the last Saturday in September. The winter 
term began on the first Monday in November, 
continuing until the last Saturday in March, leav- 
ing only two months, April and October, for 
vacations. 

In 1846 Cleveland had 13 public schools, with 
an enrollment of 1,500 cliildren, and 10 private 
schools, having 500 pupils. On the 22d of April, 
1846, ^Ir. J. A. Harris, chairman of the Commit- 
tee on Schools, reported a resolution "that a high 
school for boys be established." This was a 
proposition that startled the community and 
aroused the people, who rebelled at being taxed 
to support a high school. Connnon schools were 
well enough, but there was no sense in having a 
free high school — as well ask for a free college, 
they said. The legality of such a proceeding was 
questioned, but when it was decided that "it was 
legal to establish a free high school at the charge 
of the common school fund" the excitement 



E8TABLISHIXG— 1821-1846- si 

abated, and tax-payers were obliged to submit 
to the inevitable consequences of advancing civ- 
ilization. 

The first nigh school in Qeveland was opened 
July 13, 1846, in the basement of the Prospect 
Street Church, with 3klr. Andrew Freese as the 
principal. There were many high schools al- 
ready established in the Eastern States, probably 
that at Boston being the first, that having been 
formed in 1820. 83 pupils struggled to obtain the 
knowledge Mr. Freese was so able and willing 
to dispense, but for which he lacked appliances 
to give practical illustrations. 

Sensible, earnest pupils that they were, those 
boys earned with their own heads and hands 
money with which to purchase appliances to the 
value of several hundred dollars, such as tax- 
payers now furnish without a miumur. 

People in general looked with disfavor on the 
common schools, preferring the private ones, and 
from what is related concerning the instruction 
given in them half a century' or more ago, it is 
probable that they had good and sufficient reason 
for preferring to patronize the private schools. 

As early as the year 1826 the establishing of the 
commercial interests of Qeveland were materially 
assisted by the government appropriating the 
sum of ^,000 toward the improving of the har- 
bor. 

In 1827 a new channel was cut and piers began, 



52 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

which extended out into the lake for landings; 
and in 1830 the U. S. Government built a light- 
house at the northern extremity of Water Street, 
costing- $8,000. 

There were some 143 steamboats plying the 
''Western Water" at that time, many of which 
touched at this port, and then, as now, greater 
harbor facihties were needed. 

The opening of the Ohio Canal in 1832, with its 
309 miles of winding waterway, costing in all some 
$5,000,000, was an important event in the busi- 
ness interests of town and state, as very soon 
afterwards the Columbus, Dresden and Miami 
canals, navigable feeders of the Grand Canal be- 
tween Cleveland and Portsmouth, increased the 
length of the canal navigation to that of 400 miles, 
having 152 locks. The canals are 26 feet wide 
at the bottom, 40 feet at the surface, with a depth 
of 4 feet, the banks sloping outward 7 feet in the 
rise. The locks are of hewn stone, 90 feet long 
by 15 feet wide in the clear. All the dimensions 
are the same as the New York canals, and the 
summit level is 305 feet above Lake Erie. The 
building of the canal brought to its borders 
workmen of various grades, from the grubber and 
clearer, the mucker and ditcher, to the skilled 
mechanic, the scholarly engineer, and the monied 
director and officer. They required homes, food 
and clothing, bringing into market the farm pro- 
duce and home handiwork, as well as establishing 
many homes along the entire route. 



ESTABLISHING— 1821-1846. 53 

The first shipments were mostly of lumber and 
salt. In 1836 there were cleared 294,652 feet 
of lumber, and 22,214 barrels of salt, and the 
sum of $68,757.36.5 was received for toil and 
water rents. 

Travelers found the canal boats, primitive as 
they were, far preferable to stage coaches for 
comfort and speed, and in the collector's report 
for the year 1839, 19,962 canal passengers are 
recorded. The canal was opened to Akron in 
1827, and brought to Cleveland the first coal 
seen by its citizens, who scoffed at the dirty fuel. 
Some even questioned the possibility of such 
''black stones being made to burn." One pro- 
gressive man, Philo Scoville, ventured to invest 
in a few loads, for which he paid $2 per ton, and 
putting grates into the Franklin House, of which 
he was then owner and proprietor, he gave the 
much-scorned article a fair trial, and then fol- 
lovv^ed the establishing of that branch of Cleve- 
land's industries. 

The Cleveland Gazetteer of 1833 states that 
"Cleveland village is situated exactly midway 
from east to west of the Reserve, it being just 60 
miles in a direct line from each extremity;" and 
that "the public buildings are a new Episcopal 
church, three other houses frequently, though not 
exclusively, occupied as houses of public worship, 
an elegant court house, a jail and an academy 



54. HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

of brick, containing spacious rooms for three 
schools." 

It goes on to inform the reader that "Here are 
two printing offices from which are issued two 
weekly papers upon imperial sheets. This being 
the place of comimencement of the Ohio Grand 
Canal on Lake Erie it bids fair to become one of 
the most important towns in the State." 

Across the river the warehouses and residences 
were being rapidly erected on land purchased in 
1831 by the Buffalo Land Company, and that part 
of the town was becoming so prosperous that 
the citizens deemed it best to apply for a city char- 
ter. Cleveland Village had already applied for a 
charter. Both were granted; that of Ohio City 
under date of March 3, 1836, and that of Cleve- 
land under the date of March 5, thus giving the 
former city the seniority of two days. Brooklyn 
Village was set apart and incorporated the day 
Ohio City received her charter. The new cities, 
separated by the Cuyahoga, became rivals, and 
for years exhibited feelings of intense hatred 
toward one another. 

In 1836 James S. Clark and John W. Willey 
purchased what is now known as the flats. The 
previous year they had built the Columbus Street 
bridge, a covered, wooden structure, leading 
from Cleveland to Brooklyn, and both the new- 
made cities claimed jurisdiction over it. This 
was the most serious occurrence causea by the 



ESTABLISHING— 1821-1846. 55 

rivalry, as it necessitated the ordering out of the 
mihtary, the firing of cannon, and a general dis- 
turbance. The right was legally given to Cleve- 
land, and Ohio City was forced to yield. 

The exchange and shipping business already 
amounted to about one quarter the entire 
products of the State, and as a necessary pro- 
tection agaist losses by fire the city passed the 
following ordinance in the year 1836: "Every 
dwelling-house or other building containing one 
fireplace or stove shall have one good painted 
leathern fire-bucket with the initials of the own- 
er's name painted thereon. Every dweUing with 
two or more fireplaces or stoves shall have two 
such buckets, and an additional bucket for every 
two additional fireplaces or stoves. Every owner 
of such building not provided with buckets as 
aforesaid shall forfeit two dollars for each deficient 
bucket, and the further sum of one dollar for each 
month after notice being given by a fire warden." 
(May 7, 1836.) 

(Section 10.) "The sextons of the several 
churches which are now or may hereafter be fur- 
nished with bells shall, immediately on the alarm 
of fire, repair to the several churches with which 
they are connected and diligently ring the bells 
of said churches during twenty mmutes, and in 
such manner as directed by chief engineer, unless 
the fire be sooner extinguished, with penalty of 
$2 for every omission." 



56 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

The first fire engine was purchased in 1829, 
and the first fire company, ''Live Oak No. 1.," 
was formed in 1833, but was never regularly or- 
ganized. Many of its members joined the reg- 
ularly-organized company of Eagle No. 1., which 
was formed in the year following, Capt. Mc- 
Curdy, of the Live Oak, becoming the foreman 
of the new company. 

The chief engineer of the fire department re- 
ceived $150 for servic^^s rendered, and each fire- 
man received $1 per day for every day he at- 
tended to working or "exercising the engine." 

In a directory for 1837-^ may be found the fol- 
lowing advertisements, showing that stage 
coaches were well established at that time: 

'Tioneer Fast Stage Line from Cleveland to 
Pittsburg. To Wellsville, where passengers 
will take the steamboats to Pittsburg. Through 
in 30 hours from Cleveland. Being the shortest 
route between the two cities." 

"STAGES, 

Bufifalo via Erie. A stage leaves the office of 
Otis & Curtis, 23 Superior Street, every day at 
2 o'clock P. M." 

The Mail Stage to Pittsburg. 

The Phoenix Line Stages. 

The Stage for Detroit, and the Columbus and 
Cincinnati Stage each started from that same 
office. 



ESTABLISHING— 1821-1846. 57 

The financial crisis of 1837 was severely felt 
throughout Ohio. In Cleveland it is said that 
nearly every business man failed, and for a while 
the place seemed destined to be crippled; but it 
soon recovered, and in 1840 held the position of 
one of the leading cities in the Union. The cen- 
ter of population had changed its base from a lit- 
tle east of Baltimore to the east boundary of Ohio. 

We learn from a Gazetteer for 1841 that there 
were then in Cleveland 50 extensive mercantile 
establishments, beside book, shoe and leather, 
hatters, grocery and provision stores. There 
were 10 heavy forwarding houses connected with 
lake and canal transportation. There were also 
2 steam engine shops, 1 iron foundry, 1 sash fac- 
tory, 1 brewery, "1 steam-flouring mill capable 
of making 120 barrels of flour daily/' 1 chair fac- 
tory, 3 cabinet shops, a court house, jail, Pres- 
byterian meeting-house (of stone). Baptist meet- 
ing-house (of brick), an Episcopal church (of 
wood), and two Methodist meeting-houses now 
building. There is also a neat wood chapel for 
sailors and boatmen. There are two banks, viz., 
Commercial Bank of Lake Erie, capital $500,000, 
and the Bank of Cleveland, capital $300,000. 
There is also an insurance company with a capital 
of $500,000. Three daily papers are published, 
viz.. The Daily Gazette, Daily Herald, and the 
Daily Advertiser. Five weekly papers, the 
Whig, Herald, Advertiser, Messenger, and Lib- 



58 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

eralist. There is a reading room supplied with 
newspapers from every state and territory in the 
United States, and most of the periodicals of the 
day. 

In such a busy place as Cleveland was fast be- 
coming, it was very natural that many of its most 
prosperous citizens should build for themselves 
country residences, where free from the turmoil 
of city life they could enjoy the woods and fields, 
the birds and flowers, and the pure, fresh air and 
cool water. 

One of the first to build a palatial residence far 
removed from business life was Mr. Truman P. 
Handy, who in about the year 1837 moved out to 
near Erie Street on Euclid road, which was noted 
for its mud through the greater part of the year. 
Although Mr. Handy selected rather a lonely 
situation, zvhere the Union Club House nozv 
stands, others soon followed him, Irad Kelley 
and Peter M. Weddell going even farther out on 
Euclid road. Mr. Weddell found it quite too 
isolated, and prevailed upon his friend, Mr. John 
Blair, to purchase a lot of land of him and erect 
a residence for his family, as he desired to have 
a neighbor out there in the woods. So Mr. 
Blair bought a tract of land extending from 
Euclid to Scovill, building his house a long way 
back from the road, so that the house now faces 
on Prospect Street, which was opened years 
later. Euclid was an old road, formerly the In- 



ESTABLISHING— 1821-1846. 59 

dian trail through to Erie and Buffalo. The land 
along the western part of the way arose from the 
lake in a range along the north side of the road, 
then fell and arose again on the opposite side, the 
road itself being so low as to receive all the sur- 
face water from both ranges, and hence the set- 
tlers built their houses on the high land often 
back on what has since became a street. 

In 1835-6 Dr. Long, the famous city physician, 
moved out of the town on to a farm on Kinsman 
road, where he built an elegant home, still stand- 
ing, although on that part of Kinsman Street 
that is now known as Woodland Avenue. It is 
occupied by his descendants, the Severances. 
Even as late as 1855, a period subsequent to this 
we are considering, Mr. Nathan Perry's house 
on Euclid road was situated directly on the east- 
ern boundary line of the city, so he was able to 
live within city or county limits without going 
from beneath his own roof. Gradually the fash- 
ionable residents of Water, Michigan, and other 
down-town streets began moving out of town, 
where they could have larger estates, and Euclid 
road from the Square eastward became the fash- 
ionable center. The earlier residents bought up 
large tracts of land, extending south to Scovill 
or north to Superior, so that in time they were 
glad to aispose of houselots in the rear of their 
lots, where less pretentious homes were estab- 
lished among the stumps left on the clearings. 



60 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

Frame houses were the prevaihng style out- 
side of the business portions of Cleveland. As 
early as 1836 an ordinance was passed prohibit- 
ing the erection of wooden buildings within 150 
feet of Superior Street west of the Square, so brick 
or stone gradually took the place of wood in the 
construction of buildings in the city proper. 
Bank Street was bordered with pretty homes 
until a late date. 

In 1837 Mr. and Mrs. J. A. Harris had a cottage 
where the Harris Block now stands. Mr. Harris 
was for a long while connected with the man- 
agement of the Herald, which became the means 
of fostering much native talent in newspaper lit- 
erature. Some of the earliest efforts in poetry ap- 
peared in the marriage notices. The following 
are two interesting examples. The first is to be 
found among the marriage notices of 1830: 

"Two bright beings I saw in unsorrowing youth, 
Pledge their holiest vows in the language of truth, 
And declared that while life's crimson'd current should 

roll, 
Thus lasting should soul be united to soul." 

The other was a tribute paid to the marriage 
of a Miss Mayden and Mr. Mudd: 

"Lot's wife, 'tis said, in days of old, 

For one rebellious halt. 
Was turned, as we are plainly told, 

Into a lump of salt. 

The same propensity of change 

Still runs in female blood, 
For here we find a case as strange — 

A Mayden turn'd to Mudd." 



ESTABLISHING— 1821-1846. 61 

Writers were paid in barter, and at very low 
rates. Among the first of our newspaper writers 
was a woman who washed for her neighbors in 
order to support herself and family. She wrote 
for several of the Cleveland papers, the Herald 
among the number. Finally she came to the 
city, stopping at the old Commercial House, a 
tavern frequented by farmers. Mr. Harris heard 
of her arrival and called on her, taking her to his 
own pretty cottage, where she received a hearty 
welcome from his good wife, who is now living. 
Mr. Harris asked his wife to find out what 
their guest needed from the stores that he 
might procure the same wherewith to pay for 
lier articles she had contributed to his paper. 
When asked the question, the poor woman ex- 
claimed ''Want! I want everything." She had 
come to town in a farmer's wagon. Her host 
and hostess sent her home by stage, carrying 
with her large bags made of cotton cloth into 
which they had packed clothing, groceries, and 
various much-needed articles, instead of handing 
her the little slip of paper known as a cheque, 
such as writers of today receive. 

A lady who is well known and greatly hon- 
ored as one of the earliest writers of Cleveland 
has furnished me with some very interesting 
reminiscences of early times in the line of lit- 
erature, from which I will quote her own words. 
She writes: "I became a resident of Cleveland 



62 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

in 1844, having gone thither after several years' 
study at OberHn. Previous to coming I had 
been a contributor to the Western Reserve Cab- 
inet and Visitor, pubhshed, I think, in Hudson, 
and to the OberHn EvangeHst. EarUer, I had 
contributed to some local papers East. When I 
came to Cleveland, The Herald, J. A. Harris, 
editor, was the chief daily in the city and in North- 
ern Ohio. The Plain Dealer, J. M. Gray, editor, 
had been recently started. I think there were 
some weekHes, but I do not recall the names. 

"There were various contributors to these 
papers. Among them I recall Mr. Geo. Bene- 
dict, Richard L. Paysons, and very soon J. H. A. 
Bone. Mrs. Geo. Chapman, who I believe is still 
living on the West Side, wrote poems. * * 

"There were many families who not only kept 
themselves in touch with the literature of the day, 
but who, by means of historical and authors' 
games, and the like, kept up among the younger 
members of the household an appreciative taste 
and a love of delving among the bright things of 
the past. 

"One of these was the Woolson family, where 
father, mother and daughters enjoyed this mode 
of refreshing themselves among the treasures of 
the past. One of these daughters, at the time I 
mention, was a slip of a girl 8 or 9 years old, 
straight, slight, clear-eyed and silent, who would 
stand beside one or another of the players enjoy- 



ESTABLISHING— 1S21-1S4G. 63 

ing every bright thing to the utmost, but show- 
ing it only by the hft of the eyeHd, or the sHght 
ripple of a smile across a quiet face. This was 
Constance Fenimore Woolson." 

From the lady's letter it appears that Mr. Wool- 
son and one of his sisters were active in literary 
work, and that Mrs. Woolson was grand niece 
of the novelist, Fenimore Cooper. Also that 
"nearly all of this branch of the Woolson family 
lie buried in the different cemeteries in Cleve- 
land, one under the altar of Grace Church." 

Frances and Metta Victoria Fuller were for a 
while contributors to the Cleveland papers. M. 
A. F. — Mrs. Freeman, of this city, was for a long 
while a favorite contributor to the Herald. 

As early as 1845 I find contributions from the 
pen of H. M. Tracy, in the form of poems and 
essays. Mrs. H. M. Tracy Cutter was a gradu- 
ate of Oberlin, and a constant and always wel- 
come contributor to the city papers. 

E. M. T., of Euclid, was another writer of es- 
says, and our own Mrs. H. E. G. Arey was, and is, 
a most acceptable contributor to the local and 
eastern papers. Her influence on the literary 
advance of Cleveland has been very great and 
beneficial, and it is to be regretted that she has 
been called to take up her residence elsewhere. 

From the earliest settlement of Cleveland 
women have held a prominent place among its 
workers. By courtesy of the stronger sex they 



64 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

were early accorded privileges not bestowed upon 
them in every new place. Yet the law gave 
power to the men. A man was most certainly 
the head of the household, and his will was law. 
If he felt inclined to indulge in horsewhipping his 
wife she had no means of redress. She worked 
faithfully and well, but her husband owned the 
products of her labor. 

The following portion of a will made in 1843 
by an esteemed early settler is a curious example 
of a man's right to dispose of the household 
goods : 

"I also give and bequeath to her (his wife) one 
feather bed, 4 pillows, with the underbed, with 
6 sheets, 2 blankets, 6 pillow-cases, 9 bed-quilts, 
and her choice of the bedsteads, and in fact, she 
may take her choice in all the above articles of 
household furniture, together with the large 
rocking chair," etc. 

Probably all but the bedstead and the frame of 
the rocking-chair were the work of her hands or 
else brought as her dowry, and were thus kindly 
willed to her by her devoted husband, her lord 
and master, to whom the early laws gave strange 
rights, as it seems to us of these later days. 

The Plain Dealer of April 2d, 1846, published 
the following card to business men, which 
sounded the keynote of advancing improvements : 

"The spring of 1846 opens a new era in the 
history of Western Commerce! That most won- 



ESTABLISHING— 1821-1846. 65 

derfiil invention of the age, the magnetic tele- 
graph, brings the commercial transactions of the 
seaboard almost instantaneously to our knowl- 
edge. It is announced that the telegraph lines 
at present connecting Washington, Philadelphia, 
Baltimore, New York and Boston will be ex- 
tended through the cities of Lowell, Hartford, 
Troy, Albany, Utica, Rochester and other inter- 
mediate places to Buffalo, and be completed about 
the first of May next. Commercial and other 
important news brought by telegraph will reach 
us during the coming season Three Days in Ad- 
vance of The Mail." 

Homes, churches, schools, the city and its var- 
ious industries were now well established and 
ready to be improved. 




66 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

Chapter III. 
Period of Improving — 1846-1871. 

THE third quarter of the century of Cleve- 
land's history may be designated as that 
of improving, for it brought about marked 
improvements in homes, schools, churches, soci- 
ety, city streets, facilities of travel, and in various 
other ways. 

The city resembled a quiet New England vil- 
lage at the beginning of the period. Log houses 
had given place to pretty cottages, generally 
painted white, with green blinds on the outside, 
and a neatly kept flower-garden at the side, in 
front, or in the rear of the houses. Two-story 
houses were the exception, not the rule then, and 
frequently two families dwelt beneath one roof. 
Apprentices usually boarded in the family of their 
master, and school teachers continued to be 
"boarded round." 

The first great improvement of this period was 
that of establishing a department for girls in the 
High School in the spring of 1847, when 14 girls 
were admitted to the privilege of a higher educa- 
tion. This was looked upon with disfavor by 
.many, and most of the men in power thought it 
very improbable that girls would be able to keep 
up with the classes, although throughout the 



IMPROVING— 184G-1871. 67 

New England States they had early been admitted 
to the High School System. 

In 1825 girls had a separate school in Boston, 
and in various places in Massachusetts, Con- 
necticut, and other New England States the 
High Schools were co-educational from the 
start. They seem to have flourished from 
the first, and by the year 1838 there were 14 in 
Massachusetts. One organized in 1831 at 
Lowell, Mass., had the present bishop of Rhode 
Island for its principal, and had an enrollment 
in 1837 of 90 boys and 132 girls, which proves that 
girls were desirous of improving the opportunity 
afforded them. 

In the autumn of 1848 an attractive, or at least 
a conspicuous, advertisement appeared in the 
newspapers, informing "the Citizens of Cleve- 
land" that Dr. Morris would open a ''Female Sem- 
inary" in the Pavilion, corner of Prospect and 
Ontario Streets, where the Prospect House now 
stands, and that he would be assisted by "eight 
teachers'' who were graduates of Eastern schools. 
On the 16th of October this Female Seminary 
was duly opened, and among Dr. Morris' boasted, 
but imaginary eight assistants, was one who was 
a veritable graduate of Mt. Holyoke, and who, 
after assisting for a while in this and other sim- 
ilar institutions, opened a school of her own, 
which became very popular. 

Among this lady's twelve hundred and more 



68 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

pupils scattered over the world there is scarcely 
one who does not hold in loving remembrance 
the name of Linda T. Guilford. After 33 years 
of actual teaching, her helpful influence is still 
going forth toward hundreds of young people, 
from college maidens to daily newsboys. 

There were several other very popular and 
well-conducted private schools under the instruc- 
tion of competent teachers, whose names have 
been associated with much of the good work of 
later years. 

The Right Reverend Amedeus Rappe, who 
was a native of France, and for six years Chaplain 
of the Ursuline Convent at Boulogne-Sur-Mer, 
came to America in 1840, and soon became a force 
in the work of improving the morals and state of 
society among a certain portion of Cleveland's 
citizens. He was ordained bishop over the Dio- 
cese of Cleveland, instituted April 23, 1847, which 
had at that time 42 churches — one was in Cleve- 
land — 21 priests and 10,000 Catholics. 

In Bishop Rappe's first pastoral letter he wrote 
thus: "If the eloquence of an upright life does 
not convert our opponents, at least it silences the 
hostility of the unwise and imprudent," and 
again, "We beseech you also, beloved brethren, 
by the mercy of Jesus Christ, to live soberly. 
Drunkenness, and the debaucheries which attend 
it, degrade man, disgrace the faith and precipitate 
many into endless misfortunes." 



IMPROVING— 1846-1871. 69 

The little wooden structure, "St. Mary's" on 
the Flats, served as his cathedral until the one on 
the corner of Erie and Superior Streets was com- 
pleted. It was then out of town, quite in the 
suburbs of Cleveland. 

In the Cleveland Herald of March, 1848, may 
be found the following notice of this enterprising 
man: "Bishop Rappe is just what every man 
who has important enterprises in hand should be, 
a real working man. 

"His labors, too, are for the benefit of others, 
the present and future, the temporal, social and 
moral improvement of the people of his charge. 
Strict sobriety, industry and economy are virtues 
which he inculcates with hearty good will — the 
sure stepping-stones to. individual, family and 
associated success. Temperance supports the 
superstructure, and now over five hundred cold- 
water men are enrolled in the Cleveland Catholic 
Temperance Society." 

Bishop Rappe opened a seminary back of his 
residence on Bond Street, and in September, 
1849, he sailed for France to secure the assistance 
of priests and nuns, as well as means to enable 
him to finish the Cathedral, which was begun in 
October, 1848. He returned to America in Au- 
gust, 1850, bringing with him 4 priests, 5 sem- 
inarists, together with 2 sisters of charity and 4 
nuns, from the Ursuline Convent of Boulogne- 
Sur-Mer. 



70 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

With these came a young woman belonging to 
a fine old English family, who had become a 
Roman Catholic and been baptized by Father 
Rappe. She decided to come to America, and 
here to devote her life and such means as she 
possessed to teaching and doing missionary work 
in the West. 

A house, formerly occupied by Judge Cowles 
on Euclid Street, was purchased and made ready 
for the sisters' occupancy. It was consecrated 
on the 7th of November, 1852, and in December 
of the same year this talented young English 
woman became an Ursuline nun, the first re- 
ceived into the church on the Western Reserve. 

For years she served as one of the teachers in 
the Ursuline Academy, and has been a faithful 
member of the Convent, where she is now tenderly 
cared for in her old age. Mother Austin is well 
known to many of Cleveland's best families, 
whose daughters have been under her instruc- 
tion, and her name appears among the honorary 
Vice Presidents of the Woman's Department of 
the Centennial Commission. 

The Ursuline Sisters at once opened a select 
school and an academy, many of their pupils be- 
ing from well-known Protestant families. In 
fact a large percentage of their pupils were Prot- 
estants during the first years of the school. 

One of the grandest improvements of this 
period was that made in the methods of travel. 



IMPROVING— 1846-1871. 71 

Early as the year 1845 the project of railroads 
connecting Cleveland with various distant points 
began to be seriously considered. It was finally 
voted to loan the credit of the city to the amount 
of $200,000 for the construction of the Cleveland, 
Columbus and Cincinnati Railroad, and to the 
amount of $100,000 for the Cleveland and Pitts- 
burg Railroad. 

The building of railroads was slower work in 
those times than it is at present, when they are 
constantly springing into existence, as though 
by magic, forming an iron network over the face 
of our country. Then there were terrible obstacles 
to be overcome ; but in time this first railroad was 
completed, and on the morning of February 21, 
1851, members of the Legislature, State officers. 
Councils of Cincinnati and of Columbus, together 
with many citizens of these two cities, in all 428 
persons, took the first train over the road to visit 
Cleveland as its guests. 

When the excursion train from the Capitol 
reached our city, the guests were greeted by dis- 
charges of artillery and the voices of thousands 
of the citizens who were on hand to welcome 
them. 

On the following day, Saturday, February 22, 
a procession was formed, with General Sanford 
as chief marshal, to escort the guests to the Pub- 
lic Square in front of the Court House, where 
Mayor Case received them with an appropriate 



72 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

Speech of welcome. He was followed by the 
Hon. C. C. Convers, Speaker of the Senate ; Mr. 
Samuel Starkweather, orator of the people of 
Cleveland; Hon. Alfred Kelley, Hon. Henry B. 
Payne, Mr. Pugh, of Cincinnati, Gov. Wood, 
and Mr. Cyrus Prentiss, President of the 
Cleveland and Pittsburg R. R., 40 miles of which 
were formally opened to the public on that day, 
the city's guests taking a train to Hudson, the 
College City, and back, after v^^hich they were 
given a banquet at the Weddell House. In the 
evening there was a grand torchlight procession. 

On Sunday the ministers discoursed upon the 
great event of the age, and on Monday the people 
from far and near gathered to see the guests de- 
part on board the wonderful train with its snorting 
iron monster of a horse. Just before running out 
of the station Mr. J. Greiner sang a song com- 
posed for the occasion to the tune of "O Carry 
Me Back," which is published in full in the Her- 
ald of February 24, 1851, and from which the fol- 
lowing stanzas are selected, without comment: 

"We hail from the city — the Capitol City, 

We left in the storm and the rain; 
The cannons did thunder, the people did wonder, 

To see pious folks on a train. 

The iron-horse snorted, he puffed when he started, 

At such a long tail as he bore; 
And he put for the city that grows in the woods, 

The city upon the Lake Shore. 



IMPROVING— 1846-1871. 73 

Chorus — 

The beautiful city, the forest-tree city, 
The city upon the Lake Shore. 

The mothers ran out, with their children about. 

From every log-cabin they hail; 
The wood-chopper he, stood delighted to see 

The law-makers rode on a rail. 

The horses and cattle, as onward we rattle. 

Were never so frightened before. 
We're bound for the city that grows in the woods, 

The city upon the Lake Shore. 

Chorus — 

Great country for timber, this is, you remember, 

The planks that are planked in the mud. 
All cities this beats, for not only the streets, 

But a Governor they've made out of Wood. 

No dog wood, nor slippery elm governor he, 

But pop'lar Wood, seasoned and sure, 
And lives in the city that grows in the woods, 

The city upon the Lake Shore.. 

With the steam engine to bring ore, lumber, 
and the produce of the soil to the lake shore, 
Cleveland awakened to a new business activity. 
It had been looked upon as a pretty residence 
place, with its shady streets and broad fields, but 
few of its citizens ever dreamed, much less ex- 
pressed, the idea of its ever becoming a great 
manufacturing city. 

The work of improving the streets was actively 
carried on in 1850, when some of the principal 
ones were accepted by the city. On the 12th of 



74 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

November an ordinance was passed accepting 
Case Street, which was ordered to be 3 rods wide. 
On the 10th of December Cedar Street, 66 feet 
wide, was accepted, and on the 4th of February, 
1851, Wilson Street, 50 feet wide, was accepted. 
Cedar Street, which is now one of the busy thor- 
oughfares leading east through the city, was then 
only a cart-path winding among the stumps left 
standing on the rear lots of the Euclid road farms. 
There were probably less than a dozen houses 
on its entire length, from Perry Street to Wilson 
Street, and they were nearly all small, one-story 
houses containing one or two rooms beside a 
bedroom. The north side of the street was de- 
voted principally to market-gardens and hay- 
fields, except what remained a forest, wherein the 
men delighted to go hunting, and where the 
neighbors frequently went picnicing during the 
summer. Raspberries, gooseberries, blackberries, 
and wild grape-vines bordered this winding, 
rough way, and many a good dinner of potted 
pigeons was obtained by spreading nets over the 
berry bushes to entrap them. The street was 
often so muddy that the few pedestrians were 
forced to climb the rail-fences and walk along on 
them. Neighbors, meant more than simply the 
occupants of adjoining residences in early times. 
They constituted a circle of friends bound to- 
gether by indissoluble ties. 

The busy young housekeepers, after tidying 



IMPROVING— 1846-1871. 75 

up their own homes, would occasionally meet at 
one another's houses for a day's visit. With ba- 
bies and knitting- work they would wend their way 
through woods and over fields to a neighbor's, 
returning home in season to get supper for the 
"men-folks" before candle light. 

In winter several famihes residing within a 
mile or so of one another would join in a *'bob- 
sled" ride out to Mcllraith's tavern. Dressed 
in their best ''go-to-meeting" calicos or delaines, 
and wrapped in a ''Job's-comfort" or "Rising- 
sun" bedquilt, or in a blanket for extra warmth, 
the women would arrange themselves within a 
crockery-crate secured upon the sled, knowing 
full well that in all probability they would be 
spilled out by running against a stump before 
they had gone any distance, but the prospect of 
a dance to the music of a flute, a fiddle and a trum- 
pet, and a supper of hot-biscuits, corn-pones, 
pork, ham, pickles and cheese, kept their spirits 
up in spite of the biting cold atmosphere and the 
protruding stumps. 

In the early part of 1851 a few of the down- 
town sidewalks were flagged and the streets 
lighted with sperm-oil lamps. Boys were al- 
lowed to coast on the Square from Euclid to Su- 
perior Streets along by the side of the Forest 
City House, and on one occasion a young 
woman, wearing heelless shoes with steel-toes, 
slipped and fell as she turned to go down the hill, 



76 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

making the entire trip over the glassy surface on 
her back. 

In about 1854 Superior Street hill, from Water 
Street to the pubHc landing on the river, was 
paved with stone, but the rest of the streets re- 
mained generally slushy, muddy or dusty, accord- 
ing to the season, and pigs meandered through 
them or wallowed in their mud, in blissful ignor- 
ance of the final banishment of their kind from 
within the city limits. 

In 1859 horse-railroads began to supersede 
omnibuses. The East Cleveland Company and 
the Kinsman Street Company were organized 
that year, and the West Side Company in Septem- 
ber, 1863. 

The cars were small ones drawn by mules or 
horses, and according to an ordinance of the city 
these animals were not to be driven faster than a 
walk while turning the corners of streets, and 
cars drawn in the same direction shall not ap- 
proach each other within a distance of 300 feet, 
which must have been a relief to nervous trav- 
elers. 

For many years the subject of supplying 
Cleveland with "good and wholesome water" had 
been under consideration. In January, 1833, 
The Cleveland Water Company was incor- 
porated, but it was not until 1850 that a chartered 
company came into power and began raising a 
subscription of $27,000 to the capital stock. 



IMPROVING— 1846-1871. 77 

In 1852 William Case, Esq., chairman of com- 
mittee on Water Works, received from W. W. 
Mathers a report on the composition of the waters 
of Cleveland, in which he stated that "the follow- 
ing waters have been examined: 

"No. 1. — Well water, from a well about 50 
yards west of the theater between Superior and 
Center Streets, from the oldest part of the city. 

No. 2. — Well water, from Prof. Cassels' well, 
on the ridge of Euclid Street, two miles from the 
citv. 

"No. 8. — Water from Mr. Perry's well on Eu- 
clid Street." 

The report then states that "It will be seen from 
the above table that the Cleveland water is far 
purer than the Croton water, and fully an average 
of the other streams used to supply cities in the 
East, while the water of Lake Erie is purer far 
than any of them except Cochrinate, and is more 
than the average of even that water, so cele- 
brated." 

On the 1st of September, 1854, the job of build- 
ing the Reservoir on Franklin Street was begun, 
and in 1856 the city was supplied with water from 
the lake. 

A business directory of 1852-3 states that "The 
travel through our city has become immense ; the 
old lumbering stage-coaches have been so en- 
tirely driven from our thoroughfares that they 
are already looked upon as objects of curiosity, 



78 HISTORY OF CLEVET.AND. 

and will, doubtless, soon be sought for, to grace 
the cabinets of the curious, and be given a place, 
side by side, with the inquisitorial instruments 
of torture. 

"Our numerous and excellent hotels are con- 
stantly filled to overflowing, and scarce one of all 
these arriving and departing crowds that does not 
bear irrepressible testimony to the business and 
beautv of our city." 

Among the hotels referred to was "Stillman's," 
on the corner of Ontario and Michigan Streets. 
The best hotels were all west of the Square, as 
were the few business blocks, the halls and the 
public buildings. 

In 1853, E. I. Baldwin opened his remarkably 
fine store on Superior Street, on the site ot that 
now occupied by Hower & Higbee. It was the 
first large dry goods store, being 100 feet deep by 
19 wide. In 1868 the firm, of which Mr. H. R. 
Hatch, of Grand Isle, Vt., became a member dur- 
ing its first years, removed to a larger building a 
few rods farther west. 

Anotlier great business venture was that of 
W. P. Southworth, the grocer, who had been a 
contractor for building materials, and in several 
kinds of business previous to starting his great 
store on the north corner of Ontario and Cham- 
plain Streets in 1858, where it is said this enter- 
prising man sent out his goods in a wheelbarrow. 
The people stood aghast at the audacity of such 



IMPROVING— 1846-1871. 79 

business ventures, while the men in charge con- 
tented themselves with the rich incomes re- 
ceived, striving always to merit the patronage of 
the public. 

In April, 1854, Ohio City was annexed to 
Cleveland, and on Saturday, the 7th of October 
following, a fire was discovered in a plumbing 
establishment at No. 81 Public Square, which 
spread rapidly, consuming or damaging most of 
the buildings on the Square, on Champlain and 
on Seneca Streets. The stricken community had 
scarcely recovered from the stupor caused by 
this calamity before a worse one befell them, for 
on Friday, the 27th of October, at 11 o'clock 
P. M., a fire broke out in the stable of the New 
England House, destroying the hotel, the Corn 
Exchange, St. Charles Hotel, General Oviatt's 
brick block, finishing the work of destruction 
along Superior Street, down Merwin Street and 
along the river side, causing a total loss of $155,- 
600, and nearly crippling the city for awhile. 

Although these losses fell heavily upon the 
business community the fires resulted in the gen- 
eral improvement of that part of the city, for bet- 
ter buildings were raised on the burned district, 
and the busy little city by the lake went steadily 
on improving in every quarter, when there came 
premonitions of rebellion in the Southern States. 
Early in 1861 the newspapers contained om- 
inous headlines, such as "Two War Steamers un- 



80 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

der orders for Charleston," ''Mississippi going 
out of the Union this week." ''Southern States 
after Arms. Virginia going to Secede. More 
troops sent to Harper's Ferry," and others of a 
like nature. 

Though many of the people laughed at the idea 
of war between the North and South, others felt 
that danger was imminent, and wherever men 
congregated the subject came under discussion. 
Mothers looked anxiously on husbands and sons, 
fearing the approach of that day when they should 
be called to sacrifice one or both in behalf of their 
country. 

On the 13th of April came the announce- 
ment that the War was begun, and the Plain 
Dealer closed an editorial thus: "Still later. 
Fighting along the whole line. War vessels en- 
gaged. Fort Sumpter on fire. Watch and 
Pray." 

On the 13th of April President Lincoln became 
alarmed for the safety of Washington, D. C, and 
on Sunday, the 14th, issued a call for 75,000 
troops to the field at once, as the Confederate 
Congress had declared war against the United 
States. 

Then the patriotic citizens of Cleveland, as else- 
where, were thoroughly aroused, and the streets 
became alive with people. Flags were hung in 
churches, to which men marched to the tune of 
Yankee Doodle. Leland's Band was stationed 



IMPROVING— 1846-1871. 81 

on the balcony of the Weddell House, playing 
patriotic airs and soul-stirring music, and, while 
many still persisted in the behef that the fuss 
would soon blow over, that it was just a little 
Southern fire that would soon be quelled by a 
mere handful of armed men, all were excited over 
the news that continued to come from the Capi- 
tol. 

On the 15th Gov. Dennison, of Ohio, issued a 
proclamation calHng for troops. The requisition 
upon Ohio being 13 regiments for immediate ser- 
vice. The Grays were ordered to appear at their 
armory April 16th, when it was found that they 
had already secured 62 names on their volunteer 
list. 

On the 17th General Fitch received a dispatch 
from General Carrington at Columbus ordering 
him to "Have the Grays and Hibernian Guards, 
if full, report here by the first train, without 
arms." And on the 18th the Grays left for Co- 
lumbus on a special train at 3:50 P. M. y8 strong! 
that being 8 more than the number required. 
No one who witnessed their departure will 
ever forget that day. From the shipping 
and from nearly every building floated the Stars 
and Stripes. The air was filled with the strains 
of martial music, and thousands of men, women 
and children followed the boys in blue as they 
marched through the streets to the station, where 
followed the heartrending scenes, enacted over 



82 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

and again in every hamlet, village, town and city 
throughout our loyal states during the succeed- 
ing years of that bitter strife between sister states 
whenever the loved ones left for the field of 
battle. 

The Grays were the first company from Cleve- 
land, the first from Ohio, and one of the first in 
the Union to respond to the call for troops. Ar- 
riving at Columbus they were marched to the 
Supreme Court Room, where they bunked on 
sofas and floors, occasionally awaking to com- 
plain of the neglect of the chambermaid, who for- 
got to shake up their beds that morning, or to 
crack a joke with some comrade whose weary 
bones ached from their unaccustomed accommo- 
dations. 

The next morning they were on their way to 
Pittsburg enroute to Washington. 

At 1:30 o'clock on Saturday, April 20, Col. 
Barnett's Regiment of Artillery, including Co. D, 
composed mostly of Cleveland men, left for Co- 
lumbus and thence on to Marietta. Unfortunately 
the Hibernian Guards did not fill its quota for 
several weeks, and remained in camp. It was 
mustered into service on Sunday, April 26, as 
part of the 8th Ohio Regiment, and left for the 
field on Friday, May 3. 

The Artillery proceeded to Virginia, where 
Co. D proved the first Cleveland Co. to fire a shot 
into the enemies' ranks, when on Monday, June 



IMPROVING— 1846-1871. 83 

3, they took part in the battle at PhiHppi, Va. 

Cleveland was ably represented in most of the 
great battles during the War of the Rebellion. 
It is estimated that there were in the field at least 
7,000 men from this city, many of whom arose 
to prominence and high rank, as for instance, 
General Elwell, General James Barnett, Col. O. 
H. Payne, Col. Crane, Col. Creighton, and others. 
There is no stain on Cleveland's war record, and 
she may proudly honor the names of even the 
lowliest of her loyal sons whom she sent to the 
field during her country's danger, and perpetuate 
their memory by carving their names in marble, 
that the youth of coming generations may behold 
them, and learn to honor them. 

The women of Cleveland have always held 
themselves in readiness to assist in every good 
work of the city, and were not found wanting at 
the breaking out of the Rebellion. 

On Saturday, April 20, 1861, m less than 48 
hours after the departure of the Grays, Chapin 
Hall was filled with women, each wearing the 
National colors conspicuous as a decoration upon 
her person, to organize a Soldiers' Aid Society 
to assist the brave soldiers who were fast leaving 
for the front. Mrs. Benjamin Rouse was chosen 
its president, and throughout the war served faith- 
fully and well. 

Two days later, on the 23d, the women were 
suddenly and unceremoniously mustered into 



84 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

service by receiving notice that 1,000 volunteers 
were marching into camp from adjoining towns 
wholly unequipped and would require their im- 
mediate help. There was no hesitation as to 
what should be done. Carriages were ordered 
at once, into which there entered ladies of the 
committee to solicit from every home in the city 
bed-quilts, blankets, and other comforts for these 
volunteers, and thenceforth through all the per- 
plexities, fears and hopes of succeeding eight 
years the women of Cleveland never faltered in 
the glorious work thus thrust upon them. 

It would fire the soul of the Sphinx to hear of 
their noble self-sacrifices, and their never-dying 
perseverance through those years of vicissitude, 
when they turned their hands to whatever work 
offered, whether it was packing huge boxes of 
stores for camp, tending the sick and dying, writ- 
ing letters for the feeble and unlettered, trav- 
eling down to the front and over the battlefields 
with hospital stores, raising vegetables for the 
camps, picking berries, preparing food, managing 
entertainments to raise means to carry on their 
work — always and forever busy with head, heart 
and hand from early morn till late at night, work- 
ing for the welfare of their country's brave de- 
fenders, while many a one was herself mourning 
the loss of some dear friend or relative who had 
been shot in battle, starved in prison, or had died 
in a hospital. Young and old, weak and strong, 



IMPROVING— 1846-1871. 85 

forgot all else but the work each day brought for 
them to do, and for which they seemed to receive 
supernatural strength to enable them to carry 
out. 

Amonp^ the articles of diet sent by this Aid So- 
ciety to camps was a total of 8,107^ bushels of 
onions valued at $16,215.00, and 38,841 bushels 
of potatoes valued at $38,841. These common 
and greatly-needed vegetables were received with 
such hearty favor that it was afterwards said 
"Onions and potatoes captured Vicksburg." 
They certainly were a sustaining power to the 
soldiers who did capture that stronghold. 

Another delightful work undertaken by the 
women was that of establishing hospital gardens 
on ground confiscated for that purpose at Nash- 
ville, Murfreesboro and elsewhere, the seed and 
implements being furnished by the Society and 
the work done by convalescent and partially-dis- 
abled soldiers. In some places the gardens be- 
came objects of great pride to the boys-in-blue, 
who gained strength in working among the 
flowers and vegetables, while large quantities of 
fresh, wholesome vegetables were furnished the 
neighboring hospitals and camps. 

With all their energy taxed to the utmost to 
provide what comforts and necessities were con- 
stantly demanded at the front, these noble women 
found time to plan and successfully carry through 
the great Sanitary Fair, which began on Monday, 



86 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

the 22d of February, 1864, closing on the 10th 
of the following March. It was one of the grand- 
est affairs ever held in this city, and brought into 
the treasury of the society the amount of $100,- 
191.06 clear. 

The Soldiers' Aid Society opened various 
branches of work as occasion required, such as 
an employment agency, a war claim agency, a 
soldiers' home, and various relief departments. 
When the war closed and a camp of discharge 
was organized at Cleveland, the Aid Society was 
kept busier than ever, if such was possible, pro- 
viding food for returning regiments belonging to 
other states, and also for the sick of all organi- 
zations. The city provided for her own and the 
state troops. 

Their first installment of returning soldiers 
numbered "340 strong," and came upon them at 
three hours' notice. To feed five hundred of these 
hungry men it was found that there were re- 
quired about "135 pies, J barrel ginger cakes, 
1,000 small cakes, J barrel apple sauce, 300 loaves 
of bread, 300 lbs. of beef,| barrel of pickles, 30 qts. 
milk, ^ barrel crackers, 1 barrel potatoes, 2^ bar- 
rels coffee and 1 barrel vegetables." 

Some days the women would receive notice to 
prepare for one regiment, and before they had 
finished the meal provided, another train filled 
with soldiers would run into the station. These, 
too, must be fed ; and tired and worn as they were 



IMPROVING— 1846-1871. 87 

from their labor the ladies set about preparing 
a meal for them. No thought of self ever entered 
their minds! What they were called to do they 
did cheerfully, regardless of tired Hmbs, aching 
backs and throbbing heads. 

One particular occasion is worthy of special 
mention here. It was when the Aid Society, or 
Sanitary Commission as it was called in later 
days, was called upon to provide a meal for an 
entire brigade numbering 1,350 strong. Every 
modern housekeeper must quake at the thought of 
providing for such a number of half-starved men. 
The train was hourly expected throughout the 
entire day of July 29th, and women remained at 
their posts ready for duty until toward midnight, 
when sleep overpowered many of them. About 
two o'clock in the morning the first section of the 
train ran into the Union Depot, and the men were 
marched to the Soldiers' Home, built for such 
purposes, just parallel with the station on piers 
at what was then the water's edge, where they were 
royally feasted, but where before their hunger 
was appeased there crowded together several 
hundred more soldiers eager to get a bite of the 
good things set before their comrades, and for 
whom the tables were made ready in a surpris- 
ingly quick time. And then arrived the third 
section with its load of hungry fellows, and it was 
daybreak before the hurried, anxious, and ex- 
ceedingly tired hostesses could stop for a moment 



88 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

to rest. They had cut up bushels of bread, pies 
and cakes, they had assisted in preparing barrels 
of potatoes and onions, and had worked for hours 
supplying the cravings of 1,350 hungry men, be- 
side preparing all manner of delicacies to tempt 
the appetites of the sick and wounded, of whom 
there was always a large detachment with each 
returning regiment. 

Miss Mary Clark Brayton, the faithful secre- 
tary and a moving-spirit in the Society, has left a 
record of the work of those troubled years, which 
is an interesting monument to the memory of 
those earnest workers. The Treasurer's Report 
from April 20, 1861 to January 1st, 1869, as given 
in Miss Brayton's book entitled "Our Acre and 
its Harvest," shows a disbursement of articles 
amounting to a grand total valuation of $982,- 
421.25 at the small expense of $206,478.50, which 
conveys but a faint idea of the work carried on 
by the Society. 

Immediately upon the close of the war Cleve- 
land became the place of refuge for all classes of 
suffering humanity; the sick, the wounded, the 
liberated, half-crazed prisoner, the poverty- 
stricken soldier, the newly-freed negroes, seeking 
they knew not what, going anywhere to get away 
from the associations of the past, and many ver- 
itable refugees. These were all to be cared for, 
and in order to give to the sick and wounded such 
attention as they well merited, a permanent hos- 
pital was needed. 



IMPROVING— 1846-1871. 89 

Bishop Rappe had long been desirous of erect- 
ing one in charge of the Sisters of Charity, and 
in 1865, in connection with the citizens of Cleve- 
land irrespective of all creeds, he was enabled to 
erect the building on the corner of Perry Street 
and what is now known as Central Avenue, where 
the good work of caring for their poor, suffering 
fellow mortals is still ably conducted by the Sis- 
ters. 

During the years of the RebeUion many im- 
provements were being made in this city. EarH- 
est among them was the very important one of 
opening communication across our country fron^ 
shore to shore, through the Overland Telegraph, 
which was completed in the autumn of 1861, and 
of which Cleveland's esteemed townsmen, Mr. 
Jeptha H. Wade, was president. The first mes- 
sage wired read as follows: 

Great Salt Lake City, Friday, Oct. 18, 1861. 
Hon. J. H. Wade, Pres. Pacific Telegraph. 

Sir: Permit me to congratulate you on the 
completion of the Overland Telegraph Line west 
to this city; to commend the energy displayed by 
yourself and associates in the rapid and success- 
ful prosecution of a work so beneficial, and to 
express the wish that its use may ever tend to 
promote the true interests of the dwellers on both 
the Atlantic and Pacific slopes of the continent. 
Utah has not seceded, but is firm for the con- 
stitution and laws of our country, and is warmly 



90 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

interested in successful enterprises as the one so 
far completed. BRIGHAM YOUNG, 

Great Salt Lake City. 
The company started the sections of work from 
St. Josephs and from San Francisco, to meet at 
Salt Lake City. Mr. Wade's section arrived a 
week the earlier, a fact to which the President of 
California State Telegraph Company facetiously 
referred to in his message from 

San Francisco, Friday, October 25. 
To J. H. Wade, Pres. of the Pacific Tel. Co. 

We greet you across the continent. You beat 
us by a day or two, but we forgive you, and for it 
receive our congratulations. 

H. W. CARPENTER. 

On the 26th of October the Mayor of San 
Francisco, Cal., wired an official message to the 
Mayor of New York which reads as follows: 

"San Francisco to New York sends greetings, 
and congratulates her on the completion of the 
enterprise which connects the Pacific with the 
Atlantic. May the prosperity of both cities be 
increased thereby, and the projectors of the im- 
portant work meet with honor and reward. 
H. F. TESCHEMACHER, 

Mayor of San Francisco." 

There were several short lines running from 
Cleveland to different points, which the Hon. 
Mr. Wade bought and eventually formed into 



IMPROVING— 1846-1871. 91 

The Western Union Telegraph Co., which held 
its first election of officers on the 26th of July, 
1866, making Mr. Wade its president. These 
shorter lines were kept busy during the early 
part of 1861 sending messages of such contra- 
dictory nature that it was often impossible to as- 
certain the truth regarding the movements of our 
army. 

In view of the great importance of controlling 
the entire system of telegraph lines throughout 
the loyal states, General McClellan made Captain 
Anson Stager general manager of the entire sys- 
tem of Hues that could be made serviceable to the 
government, and Cleveland became the head- 
quarters of the National Union Telegraph, as 
well as of the Western Union and of the Pacific 
lines. 

On the 28th of April, 1865, Cleveland had the 
mournful honor of having the remains of the mar- 
tyred President Abraham Lincoln lie in state be- 
neath a canopy prepared for the occasion be- 
neath the trees on the Square, while the funeral 
pageant paused to rest in its journey to Spring- 
field, Illinois, and to the ''Grays" was accorded 
the honor of standing guard over the body of 
their country's dead President, during the time 
of its stay. 

When thof excitement consequent upon the 
war was finally over and civil affairs again 
claimed the attention of the people, various well- 



92 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

known societies and institutions came into exist- 
ence. On the 7th of May, 1867, The Western 
Reserve Historical Society was organized as a 
department of Case Library, for the better pres- 
ervation of rehcs, manuscripts, books and what- 
ever pertained to the history of the Reserve, and 
in the following November it was given rooms 
in the fire-proof building of the Society for Sav- 
ings, on the Square. That same year the flour- 
ishing Public Library, founded in 1853, came 
under the support of the city. 

In 1867 The Young Men's Christian Associa- 
tion was reorganized. It was formed in 1854, 
but disbanded during the war. They first occu- 
pied a small room in a building on Superior 
Street. After reorganizing they occupied 
rooms on the third floor of a building on 
Superior corner of Seneca Street, afterward mov- 
ing into the Kendall Block, and later into a dwell- 
ing house on the site of the present Society for 
Savings. Their next move was to the corner of 
Euclid and Sheriflf Street, where they fitted up an 
elegant building for the times at an expense of 
about $25,000. 

In November, 1868, The Women's Christian 
Association was formed, with the late Sarah E. 
Fitch, President, and began its noble work of 
rendering aid to women in need of a helping 
hand. Through the generous gifts received 
from benevolent friends the Association was en- 



IMPROVING-1846-1871. 93 

abled to open the "Retreat" on Perry Street in 
June, and the Boarding Home on Walnut Street 
on November 11th, 1869. These and various 
other societies were started in the interests of 
humanity during the remarkably prosperous 
years succeeding the close of the war. 

Business of all kinds was prosperous, and the 
manufacturing interests were making rapid 
progress. The iron and coal interests were de- 
veloping with such rapidity as to bring this city 
into special prominence as their chief mart along 
the lake, and one of the busiest of Western cities. 
The Cleveland City Forge and Iron Co., the 
great malleable iron works, and many others 
were being established in a small way. In 1870 
Cleveland had 14 rolling mills having a daily 
capacity of 400 tons of finished iron, beside the 
rails, spikes, nuts, etc., and there were over half 
a million tons of iron ore, together with more 
than 76,000 tons of pig and scrap iron received 
annually. These mills, as a rule, owned their 
own coal mines, and it was estimated that of the 
one million tons of coal received here annually 
at least one-half of it was for home consumption. 
Among all the manufacturing companies es- 
tablished during this period the one best known 
throughout the world is that of the Standard Oil, 
which was organized in 1863 by a gentleman who 
had become thoroughly acquainted with the pro- 
cess of extracting oil from coal. With knowl- 



94 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

edge for his capital, other men came forward to 
put in a few thousand dollars apiece, and thus 
the company was formed. After the first well was 
sunk for petroleum in the oil district of Penn- 
sylvania, in 1858, refineries were soon established 
throughout the oil-producing states. The 
Standard Oil Company was formed for the pur- 
pose of refining the Pennsylvania petroleum, em- 
ploying at first about 10 men, and making an 
average of 25 barrels of oil per day. It met with 
phenomenal success, and by the close of the 
period was producing at least 10,000 barrels of oil 
per day, while the energetic partners were amass- 
ing fortunes. The company has become the larg- 
est monopoly in the world, with steamers of its 
own, running to various distant ports, and agents 
established in nearlv. if not every, civilized coun- 
try. Cleveland was the birthplace of the Stand- 
ard Oil Company, the home of its principal pro- 
jectors, and for years was its headquarters, but 
New York and Whiting, Indiana, have now be- 
come its important business centers, the works 
at the latter place being considered the largest 
of the kind in the world. Those at Cleveland 
cover several hundred acres of ground, and today 
represent what the firm acknowledges to be an 
actual capital of $3,500,000. While the Standard 
Oil Company is not usually looked upon as a 
missionary enterprise it has certainly carried 
light unto many nations. 



IMPROVING— 1846-1871. 



95 



As this period of our history draws to a close 
we find Cleveland with a population of about 
100,000 souls, having more than doubled its pop- 
ulation during every decade within the past fifty 
years, until it occupied the position of third among 
the Great Lake Cities, and one of the first in man- 
ufacturing interests. It was no longer ''the city 
that grows in the woods," but it was most truly 

"The beautiful city, the forest-tree city, 
The city upon the Lake Shore." 




96 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

Chapter IV. 
The Period of Enlarging— 1871-1896. 

THE old camping ground of the Seneca, 
Delaware, Wyandotte and Cuyahoga In- 
dians, together with the adjacent forests, 
had now become a city of great mercantile and 
commercial importance, built over with fine, solid 
structures of brick and stone. 

Cuyahoga, the crooked river, washed its way 
through a section teeming with business activity ; 
railroads, lumber, coal, stone and ship-yards, with 
manufacturing establishments of various kinds, 
studded its banks for several miles distant from 
its mouth. Its blue, crystal water had become 
a thing of the past, for filth of all sorts was point- 
ing its depths and menacing the health of the 
city. 

The Indians and their camping ground were 
alike unknown to the busy men and women of the 
day, who gave little heed to the past, while work- 
ing diligently for the future. 

In 1873 there were more than 300 manufactur- 
ing establishments located in Cleveland, paying 
upwards of $7,500,000 wages, and as the city con- 
tinued to prosper it was seized with an irrepressi- 
ble desire for enlarging its belongings. Its 
boundaries, its buildings, its homes, its schools, 
its libraries, its business facilities, in fact, every 



ENLARGING— 1871-1896. 97 

distinctive feature must be enlarging, in order to 
keep pace with the spirit of the period, until 
Greater Cleveland became words indissolubly con- 
nected, to be rung continually on the ears of the 
citizens of this beautiful, flourishing city. 

In considering the growth of the period, it will 
be best to take a retrospective glance at its prin- 
cipal features, and thus be brought to realize the 
marvelous changes wrought within the present 
quarter of a century. To begin with the bound- 
aries: They have been extended since 1855, by 
annexing Ohio City, and from time to time sev- 
eral portions of Brooklyn, Newburgh, and Euclid 
townships, until today the city covers an area of 
over 31 square miles, being 9f miles from East 
to West, and G-J miles from North to South, with 
a river frontage of 15-16 miles, 5 miles being de- 
voted to dockage, boat-landings, warehouses 
grain-elevators, iron-furnaces, lime-kilns, slaugh- 
tering and meat-packing establishments, and 
iron, stone, coal and lumber yards. 

The forests have given place to upwards of 
2,031 streets, many of which are built over with 
comfortable and for the most part elegant resi- 
dences, truly palatial in comparison with those 
built of logs by the riverside in 1796-7. Could 
the pioneers revisit the place they located a cen- 
tury ago and enter any of its ordinary homes of 
comfort with their lace-bedecked windows, ar- 
tistic adornments and modern conveniences, they 
would surely beHeve themselves in fairly land. 



98 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

Fancy, if you can, Lorenzo Carter or Job Stiles 
on board an electric motor line riding in from 
Euclid, from Newburg or from Rocky River! 

How these brave men, who feared neither In- 
dian nor wild beast, and whose brawny arms 
felled many stately monarchs of the forests in days 
gone by, would quake with terror to be seated in 
an elevator and carried suddenly up-up-up-8-9- 
12-14 stories by an unseen force! And would 
they not believe that the land of their choice had 
become infested with witches as they heard the 
voices through our telephones, or the music of 
our phonographs? And pray! What would the 
good dames who used to trip to and from the 
neighboring springs for buckets of water, and 
often worked in vain to strike a light with damp- 
ened tinderboxes, say to our faucets, our elec- 
trical appliances, our fuel-gas, and our sewing 
machines? 

Scarcely a vestige of the old home-life remains 
in the homes of today. Occasionally some lover 
of the antique reproduces a few features of it, 
modernized, it is true, as for instance, the gas-log, 
which burns so brilliantly upon many a beauti- 
fully-tiled hearth with its expensive brass fire- 
dogs, appears as a substitute for the huge log 
that was once drawn into the house to the great, 
gaping, sooty fireplace by horses, and then rolled 
into place as a backlog to burn for a week or 
more, and the never-melting gas-candles in 



ENLARGING— 1871-1896. 99 



chandeliers suggest the dim, sputtering, smoking 
tallow-dips of long ago. But modern house- 
keepers know almost nothing of the customs of 
the early dames, except as they occasionally Hsten 
to tales of the past. Nor do they always appre- 
ciate their own beautiful homes, which not in- 
frequently are the result of the honest integrity 
and steady industry of their worthy ancestors. 

Cleveland has enlarged and must continue to 
enlarge her school facilities. Of the 57 massive 
school buildings now occupied by 48,576 chil- 
dren, there is still an urgent necessity for more 
room. 1,048 teachers were employed during the 
past year in the regular school work, beside 5 
special ones, and more school buildings with a 
larger corps of teachers are required this pres- 
ent year. 

The Western Reserve College, the nucleus of 
the Western Reserve University, was chartered 
in 1826, and established in a building erected for 
its use at Hudson, Ohio. After years of credit- 
able work there, it was thought best to remove 
it to Cleveland, where through the generosity 
and influence of Mr. Amasa Stone and others it 
was enabled to take possession of its beautiful 
new buildings dedicated October 26th, 1882, 
standing on land adjoining that occupied by the 
Case School of Applied Science, which was or- 
ganized the previous year. 

The new college was named Adelbert, in honor 



100 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

of the beloved son of Mr. Stone, and the School 
of Applied Science was named in honor of its 
founder, Leonard Case. Adelbert College for a 
few years admitted women into classes. As 
Western Reserve women have never been found 
far from the front ranks, in 1888 it was deemed 
necessary to establish The College for Women as 
an integral part of the Western Reserve Uni- 
versity. 

Several Eastern colleges had admitted women 
under certain restrictions, they had their annexes, 
but here was established the first co-ordinate col- 
lege for women in the country to stand as an 
equal wath the others forming this prosperous 
University. It owns commodious and delight- 
fully-situated building was opened for use in Sep- 
tember, 1892, but was not formally dedicated un- 
til October 24, 1893, when there were the names 
of 85 students enrolled. 

The colleges of the University are constantly 
gaining in popular favor, and demand greater 
facilities for their steadily increasing number of 
students, Adelbert having 142 students, the Col- 
lege for Women 108, and the entire University 
somewhat over 500. The University and the 
Case School of Applied Science have been power- 
ful factors in the growth and welfare of the east- 
ern part of the city. They are institutions of 
which every citizen may well feel proud. 

One after another of the religious societies have 



ENLARGING— 1871-1896. 101 

removed to new and larger buildings far distant 
from their former sites, the general trend being 
eastward, or toward the light, rather than, accord- 
ing to the general rule of westward, with the sun. 

Business houses have enlarged their quarters 
by removing to some of the many elegant build- 
ings which have been springing up in every 
direction. 

The Society for Savings Building was among 
the first of the noticeably elegeant structures 
erected. Its first story, which is occupied by the 
society for bank purposes, is 25 feet in the clear, 
above which rise 9 stories occupied as offices. 
The Society for Savings was incorporated March 
22, 1849, and formally organized on the 18th of 
the following June. At first its office was a room 
20 feet square on Bank Street, where it opened 
its door for depositors on Wednesdays and Sat- 
urdays from 5 to 7 o'clock P. M. during the sum- 
mer, and from 4 to 6 o'clock ni the winter. In 1853 
the Society "Resolved" to pay the Secretary and 
Treasurer the surplus earnings of the Society 
after paying dividends and expenses, which sum 
amounted to $50. 

At the end of 2J years its depositors numbered 
484. From this small beginning the Society has 
so prospered that it now owns and occupies one 
of the finest bank buildings in the country. 

The Arcade, connecting the two main thor- 
oughfares, Euclid Avenue and Superior Street, 



102 HISTORY OP CLEVELAND. 

the Garfield, a veritable sky-scraper, the Cuya- 
hoga, the Mohawk, the New England, the Perry^ 
Payne, the Hickox, the Permanent, and many 
others are buildings which are a credit to the bus- 
iness enterprise of Cleveland. 

As the years rolled on the steady increase of 
trafftc across the river caused a demand to be 
made for larger bridges than were in use at the 
beginning of this period. The first to be built 
was the Superior Street Viaduct, formally opened 
on Friday, December 27, 1878, when the Mayor, 
the city officials and invited guests escorted by \'ar- 
ious military and civic organizations, acronipan- 
ied by bands of music marched through the streets 
to the new viaduct 3,211 feet long, constructed of 
Berea sandstone and iron, spanning the Cuya- 
hoga River. It had occupied four years' time 
in building, and cost upwards of $2,000,000, and 
was at length in readiness to be accepted by the 
Mayor in the name of the city. At the eastern 
terminus of the bridge the procession halted. 
The Mayor and attendants, escorted by Col. 
Albert Barnitz, marshal of the day, and his staff, 
crossed to the west side wdiere the contractors 
and another division of the procession awaited 
them. As the Mayor officially accepted the via- 
duct from the contractors, cannons stationed on 
the bridge belched forth a National salute, and 
then after returning to the eastern end, the en- 
tire procession marched across the new bridge 



ENLARGING— 1S71-1S96. 103 

through some of the principal streets on the West 
Side and back to the old Tabernacle, where they 
listened to an oration, and finished the day's fes- 
tivities by a banquet at the Weddell House in the 
evening. 

From the little pontoon bridge of about 1836, 
and the covered wooden one on stone piers and 
abutments, of a little later date, improvements 
have been going on until the dark water of the 
Cuyahoga rolls sluggishly on beneath bridges 
of great strength and solidity, and two magnifi- 
cent viaducts of marvelous workmanship. 

As a younger generation came more to the 
front in the work of the city, the sons and daugh- 
ters of the pioneers, and others who were early 
settlers here, were drawn more closely together 
in a bond of the deepest interest and sympathy. 
Meeting from time to time to talk over the good 
old times, made more fascinating by each depart- 
ing year, in 1879 they organized The Early Set- 
tlers' Association, which has now reached a total 
membership of 1,059, beside an honorary mem- 
bership of 29. 97 of the members have been of 
Connecticut birth, and 195 of foreign birth. 29 
were born during the latter part of the last cen- 
tury, and of these, Mr. John Doan, of Euclid, is 
the only surviving one. The Society holds its 
annual meeting on the 22d of July, when every 
elderly member equal to the exertion of attend- 



104 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

ing is sure to be present to once again clasp the 
hands of his old-time companions. 

With the rapid inrush of foreigners the charita- 
ble societies have been obliged to enlarge their 
work. New, suitable and generally-tasteful 
buildings have been erected over the city for vari- 
ous classes of needy men, women and children. 
Hospitals, homes, orphan asylums, temperance 
rooms, kitchen-gardens, kindergartens,, and so 
on have been erected to meet the ever-increasing 
demand, and each and all are under the careful 
managment of the innumerable societies which 
have been formed within the past 25 or 30 years. 

The various temperance societies, which are 
the outgrowth of the Temperance Crusade of 
1874, have done a wonderful work throughout 
the city, not si^h as can be reported in full, nor 
such as speaks for itself, but such as quietly 
reaches out to help the unfortunate of every class. 
'The Open Door," The Friendly Inn, the read- 
ing rooms, evening schools, and other branches 
under their supervision, are well conducted and 
faithfully carried on. The Bethel, The Men's 
Home, The Home for the Friendless, and the 
rest of the 225 or more benevolent institutions 
are deserving of praise, but the charity which 
perhaps appeals the strongest to the heart of most 
people is that of the Cleveland Day Nursery and 
Free Kindergarten Association, which has been 
the special work undertaken by the Young 



'eNLARGING-1871-1896. 105 

Ladies Branch of The Women's Christian Asso- 
ciation, organized March 15, 1882. During the 
April following, a Day Nursery was opened on 
Perry Street with the names of 7 children en- 
rolled. Other nurseries were soon started, and 
within a year's time the Society was in possession 
of a building given them by Mr. Joseph Perkms, 
and since known as the Perkins Day Nursery. 
The Nurseries were opened to working women 
as a safe place for their little ones, while they were 
out earning, affording the tenderest and best of 
nurses at the low rate of 5 cents per day. It is 
the aim of the Society to reach the mothers 
through these tiny missionaries, and agam, 
through them to better the conditions in the mis- 
erable homes of a large class of ignorant people. 
In many cases the Society has been amply re- 
warded by the changes thus brought about. 

In April, 1886, a higher branch of education 
was opened to this class oi little folks by the es- 
tablishing of the first Free Kindergarten with an 
average daily attendance of 10 children during 
the first year. The work has been so earnestly 
and faithfully carried on that now the Society has 
6 Nurseries and 10 Kindergartens, with an en- 
rollment of 1,229 in the former, and an average 
<iaily attendance of 250 children in the latter de- 
partments. In this way the Society reaches 666 
families directly, and at least twice that number 
indirectly. Donations amounting to $17,000 



106 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

have been received the past year, enabling the 
Society to enlarge its work as demanded by a 
steadily-increasing foreign population. It is to 
be hoped that the kindergarten methods of train- 
ing the minds of the little people will soon be- 
come a part of the Public School System of Cleve- 
land. 

Again, during this period, our country has 
been called to mourn the loss of its Chief Mag- 
istrate, another martyr to the mistaken zeal of 
a political fanatic. On the 2d of July, 1881, news 
came of the assassination of President James 
Abram Garfield, and then followed weeks of anxi- 
ety, full of fears and hopes, until on the evening 
of September 19th the message came telling that 
the painful struggle for life was over, and the 
weary one was at rest. 

The entire Nation mourned his loss; but Cleve- 
land's grief was like that of a mother sorrowing 
for her idolized child. Business was suspended. 
Every house put out its emblems of woe, and 
everywhere throughout the day was heard 

"The sobbing of the bells," 

'The passionate toll and clang" — of 

"Those heart-beats of a Nation." 

In accordance with the President's expressed 
desire his body was brought to Cleveland to be 
laid at rest in Lake View Cemetery. The recep- 
tion of the funeral cortege on Saturday, Septem- 
ber 24th, of the body lying in state on Sunday 



ENLARGING— 1871-1896. 107 

within a catafalque erected on the Square, 
guarded by a detachment of the ''Grays," who had 
so recently attended the inaugural of him, they 
now watched over in sadness, the grand and im- 
pressive services on Monday, the five-miles long 
procession of at least 25,000 men belonging to 
military and civic organizations, and the solemn 
service at the cemetery in the drenching rain, 
are well remembered by many of us. 

On Memorial Day (May 30), 1890, the mem- 
orial mausoleum, "Erected by a grateful Country 
in memory of James Abram Garfield, twentieth 
President of the United States of America; 
Scholar, Soldier, Statesman, Patriot; born Nov., 
1831, dec'd A. D. Sept. 19th, 1881," was dedicated 
with impressive ceremony. This structure stands 
on a high blufif of land in Lake View Cemetery, 
where thousands visit it annually. It is visible 
from various points, often far distant from the 
cemetery, and however the beholder may feel 
regarding its exterior appearance, the decora- 
tions within will be found to be of a high order 
of art. 

The mausoleum should be an incentive to the 
hundreds of students who view it daily: for to 
them it should be a constant reminder of these 
words, once uttered by the man whose memory 
it commemorates: "Some men, undoubtedly, 
have greater talents than others, but no matter 
how gifted a man may be, he must work for all 



108 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

that he desires to accompHsh; he must first gather 
the knowledge he wishes to impart. It doesn't 
grow in his brains ; he must store it there himself/' 

On the 4th of July, 1894, the Soldiers' and 
Sailors' Monument on the Public Square was 
dedicated, and whether we, like the majority of 
our soldiers and sailors, "view it with a lover's 
eye," and see in it all that the very worthy archi- 
tect designed should be seen in this peculiar 
structure, whether we approve or disapprove of 
its style of architecture, we may fully appreciate 
the motive, and all that it is intended to commem- 
orate, and honor the noble men and women whose 
names are carved in marble or stone within this 
costly memorial. 

One thousand surviving soldiers, having re- 
ceived honorable discharge from service, are now 
enrolled as members of the 8 Posts of the Grand 
Army of the Republic at Cleveland. At their 
regular meetings and annual encampments they 
help to perpetuate the deeds of valor of many an 
honored comrade whose grave is unknown, but 
whose memory is cherished by the survivors of 
those troubled times. 

In 1891 The Young Men's Christian Associa- 
tion completed its present building on the corner 
of Prospect and Erie Streets, which cost about 
$274,000, and has an assembly room with seating 
capacity for 900. The society has enlarged its 
work by establishing branches in various sections 



ENLARGING— 1871-1896. 109 

of the city, having now a total membership of 
some 3,300 men, 2,400 being members of the 
central institution. 

While business and homes have been rapidly 
pushing eastward, the tide of progress has not 
been limited to any one direction. To the west, 
along the lake shore, have been erected many 
palatial homes, having picturesque grounds, in- 
to which the less-favored people are privileged 
to look and sometimes drive. In every direction 
the city reaches out for more room, and goes on 
improving what she already possesses. 

It would be a hopeless task to undertake to 
notice the many changes which have taken place 
within the present quarter of a century. Possibly 
Willson Avenue presents as fine an illustration 
of the typical enlarging of the city and of public 
opinion as any one distinctive feature. During 
the third quarter of this century it was a quiet 
w^oods, the favorite resort of picnics. Two by 
two the Sunday School children were marched 
out from the city to enjoy the delights of country 
air and healthful breezes, and to play hide and 
seek among the big forest trees along this wooded- 
road. 

The shade and silent gloom have given place 
to a constant rush and whirl of busy life. The 
broad road is opened from the lake on the north 
to Broadway on the south. It is crossed and re- 
crossed by various lines of Steam Railroads, and 



110 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

traversed its entire length by electric ones. Com- 
fortable homes of every grade of society border 
this beautiful avenue, where reside Jews and gen- 
tiles, tlie rich and the poor, the high and the 
lowly, the learned professor, the rich merchant, 
the skilled mechanic, and the common workman. 
The Baptists, Methodists, Hebrews and Roman 
Catholics have each erected elegant buildings in 
close proximity, the sects being kindly disposed 
one toward the other, and with minds so en- 
larged as to enable them to discern good in each 
and all. 

Tifferith Israel Temple, cor Willson and Cen- 
tral Avenues, is a magnificent structure, such as 
any city may be proud to own. In 1895 this soci- 
ety removed from its old place of worship to its 
more elegant and costly one. A little earlier 
their neighbors, the Ursuline Sisterhood, re- 
moved from their old convent to their new abode, 
corner Willson and Scovill Avenues, where they 
occupy a light, bright and convenient edifice, al- 
most perfect in every detail. 

On the corner of Willson Avenue and Prospect 
Street stands the Epworth Memorial Church, a 
structure that would have horrified the early 
brethren of this denomination, who held it little 
short of a sin to spend money in decorating God's 
house of worship. A Methodist sister, who 
opened the first Sunday School in this country, 
once apologized for her people occupying such 



ENLARGING^— 1871-1896. Ill 

a fine church edifice as they worshiped in, by stat- 
ing that they didji't build it, only bought it as it 
zvas at a very low price. 

But the Epworth Society built theirs with mal- 
ice aforethought, and made it wonderfully con- 
venient, with its walls disappearing as by magic, 
its theater-like seats, and various other contriv- 
ances for comfort, beauty, and service. In con- 
formity with the spirit of the age, this Society has 
broadened and enlarged its viezvs, as well as its 
surroundings, having now one of the most con- 
venient and unique houses of worship in the city. 

There are upwards of 190 churches within our 
city limits, nearly all being fine edifices. The 
Institutional Church is the latest innovation in 
religious circles, and bids fair to accomplish a 
great work. 

It is to be regretted that in a city like this art 
and music, those heavenly twins, have been so 
sadly neglected, but within the past few years 
both have taken a fresh start, and today we have 
no reason to feel ashamed of either branches of 
art as carried on in our midst, only to regret that 
home talent is not more fully appreciated. 

In 1876 The Cleveland Art Club was formed, 
meeting in a small room for study and work. In 
1889, on the 4th of November, it was incor- 
porated, having then 12 members. This club 
aims "to foster and encourage the taste and study 
of the fine arts in all its branches," and to ''aid, 



112 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

assist, educate and instruct its members in mat- 
ters pertaining to a proper and correct knowledge 
of the fine arts." This it has done for many 
now well-known artists, among whom may be 
mentioned Herman Herkomer and his sister, Ber- 
tha, George C. GroU, F. W. Simmons, F. C. 
Gottwald, and others, who have gone forth to 
distant cities and countries, where as painters, 
illustra?tors and designers they are winning fame 
for themselves and honor for the elub. 

In 1882 The Cleveland School of i\rt was 
opened for the purpose of educating women in 
industrial art work. It was originally intended 
to be managed by and for women only. After 
various changes the school was established in 
the Kelly mansion on Willson Avenue in June, 
1892, where, under the supervision of Miss 
Georgie Norton and a corps of competent teach- 
ers, it has come to be known as an ably conducted 
and very creditable art school open to both sexes, 
and doing really excellent work. 

There are many musical societies in this city, 
the most of them formed of foreigners, but a few 
of native talent. The Choral Society is well 
known both at home and abroad from the ex- 
cellent music it has brought out at various times, 
and the Arion Quartet is of marked excellence. 
The church choirs are generally of a high stand- 
ard, and through the Fortnightly, which is in its 
third season, the people of Cleveland have been 



ENLARGING— 1S71-1896. 113 

able to hear some of the master musicians, and 
many concerts of a high order. The musicians 
are many, but for some reason the art does not 
flourish here as elsewhere, although the prospect 
brightens every year. Wilson G. Smith, J. H. 
Rogers, Johann Beck, and others are composers of 
great merit at home, while abroad we have many 
of our form.er citizens earning fame for them- 
selves. *'Rita Elandi," Miss AmeHa Louise Groll, 
who used to sing in the Old Stone Church, Ella 
Russell and Marion Manola, are well-known fav- 
orites on the operatic stage, and Eugene Cowles 
is one of the famous Bostonians. 

The Dramatic Stage has received from here 
such favorites as Efifie Ellsler, Clara Morris, 
Joseph Haworth, James O'Neil, and others. 

The period has brought about many changes 
in the way of amusements and entertainments. 
Four theaters have been built for the nightly en- 
tertaining of the public, the Opera House being 
the popular favorite, where are to be seen every 
season some of the best actors and actresses of 
the dramatic world. 

At the beginning of the present century six cit- 
ies in the United States had a population of over 
8,000 souls, and one had reached 75,000. This was 
nearly tzvo centuries after the arrival of the James- 
town settlers in Virginia. Cleveland has reached 
a population of upwards of 333,000 in 100 years, 
a rapidity of growth unparalled by any city of its 



ll-i HISTORY OP CLEVELAND. 

age east of it. There are cities west of it of even 
more remarkable growth, but they were founded 
in the interests of lake or railroad traffic, or be- 
cause of some urgent need, while Cleveland 
sprang into existence to open up a new, wild and 
unknown country, hence its growth is the more 
remarkable. 

There are some 2,300 manufactories established 
here, and Cleveland has the name of being the 
headquarters of the largest shoddy mills in Amer- 
ica, the largest electric light carbon works, and 
the place where the largest telescopes are made. It 
has also attained the honor of making more than 
half the chewing gum consumed by the Ameri- 
can people, one firm manufacturing a ton a day. 
These facts have often been stated, but 
there is seldom any mention made of a very 
important branch of Cleveland's industries, that 
of salt-making. There is one establishment, 
probably the largest private concern in the coun- 
try, which makes several thousand barrels of salt 
daily. They have 7 wells about 2,000 feet deep, 
from which they procure brine which is nearly 
100 per cent. salt. 30 boilers are constantly at 
work pumping this brine into the great pans 
where it crystalizes. This firm manufactures 
most of its own barrels, some 2,500 per day, and 
the bags needed for the finer grades, a dozen or 
more sewing-girls stitching up daily about 5,000 
bags apiece. There are older salt works here, 
but this is the largest. 



ENLARGING— 1871-1 89G. 115 

Among the younger industries may be men- 
tioned that of the flower trade, which has devel- 
oped within this period, and centers about Euclid 
and Erie Streets, the latter thoroughfare being 
frequently termed Floral Row, from its numerous 
stores in which hot-house plants and flowers are 
most tastefully displayed. Floriculture has 
greatly developed within the past 10 or a dozen 
years. At the beginning of the century there 
was but one commercial florist in the United 
States, and 80 per cent, of the whole business has 
developed within the past quarter of a century. 
In 1840 there were known to be two florists in 
the State of Ohio, where there are now 393 of 
them, selling annually $1,051,058.85 worth of cut 
flowers. Last autumn (1895) The Cleveland 
Floral Association was formed, holding its first 
exhibit during the Chrysanthemum season. 

There are many well-known florists in Cleve- 
land, and it is estimated that the retail trade 
amounts to at least $50,000 annually. The whole- 
sale trade supplies Ohio, most of Indiana, and 
various portions of several other states. About 
one-half the orchids sold in the city are raised 
here, the rest being brought from New York. 
Flowers do not bring the prices here that they 
do at the East, especially in New York City, 
where, during the winter, the American Beauty 
Roses bring as high as $25 per dozen. They 
range from $15 to $18 here, while pinks, those 



116 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

faithful bloomers, sell from 35 cents to 75 cents 
per dozen. 

Our citizens are becoming more and more lib- 
eral in their purchases of flowers, decorating their 
homes on all occasions, whether of joy or sorrow, 
and many families spend at least $100 per month 
during the winter season in thus bringing some 
of the beauty of summer into their own homes. 
The hot-houses are to the wealthy what the parks 
are to the poorer classes, much prized luxuries, 
furnishing beauties of Nature to rest and refresh 
the weary. And thanks to the generous donors, 
Cleveland possesses two parks of rare beauty; 
Gordon Park, of 122 acres beside the lake, the 
gift of the late W. J. Gordon, on which he had 
already expended upwards of half a million dol- 
lars, and Wade Park, of 74 acres, given by the 
late Jeptha H. Wade, are too well known and 
appreciated to require further notice. These, with 
other parks of lesser magnitude scattered over 
the city, amounting to a total of 1,100 6-10 acres, 
afiford healthy resorts open to all classes, where 
the eye may be feasted on beauties of Nature. 

Electric Railways, with their "Broom-stick 
trains," have entirely done away with horse-cars 
within, and for miles without, our city limits. No 
horse-cars have run since July, 1893, the witches 
having taken full possession of all the lines, where 
their red-hot wires and brilliant sparks are often 
more suggestive of Pluto's regions than of public 
convenience. 



ENLARGING— 1871-1896. 117 

A rival class of witches are those of ''the 
wheel," the bicyclists, who rush madly in where 
others fear to go, seemingly wilHng, like "Puck," 
to "put a girdle round about the earth in forty 
minutes." In our grandmother's day it was con- 
sidered an arrant boldness for a woman to be seen 
driving through the streets in an open buggy. 
Now they go spinning along on their wheels at- 
tired in their pretty costumes — bloomers ex- 
cepted — as free and cheery as the birds them- 
selves. 

The placid "twining-vine" of early days will- 
ingly accepted the views of the sterner sex with- 
out questioning the fallacy of them, or if she did 
so, she discreetly remained silent. The woman 
of the period has come to think, reason, and speak 
for herself. While endeavoring to keep abreast 
of the times, the women of Cleveland have or- 
ganized innumerable clubs, of a Hterary or in- 
structive tendency, wherein they do good and 
thorough work, according to their respective 
lines of study. 

The few Men's Clubs are generally of a social 
or business nature. Cleveland is decidedly a 
City of Women's Clubs, and it is to be hoped that 
the day is not far distant when clubs will be at- 
tended by men and women, husbands and wives, 
brothers and sisters, for it is high time this divi- 
sion of the sexes should cease. If men of busi- 
ness have not the leisure in which to carry on the 



118 . HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

study requisite for active membership in literary 
clubs, extend to them a hearty welcome as listen- 
ers, and surely the women, wives, sisters, and 
friends, will be pleased to grace with their pres- 
ence club suppers and other social festivities if 
privileg'ed to do so. 

Cleveland is fast becoming a literary city, hav- 
ing many journalists, magazine writers and nov- 
elists in her midst who are well-known at home 
and abroad. She also publishes 112 newspap- 
ers, magazines and periodicals. 

The century is drawing to a close. A few brief 
months and the memory of the past, like a golden- 
clasp, will be all that is left to unite the old and 
the new centuries. Here and there are now stand- 
ing evidences of a life which has been a family 
mansion or a quaint old store, but they, too, will 
soon be swept away by the ravishes of time. 
They will not stand for ages like those memori- 
als of a people, unknown to us, who constructed 
the 10,000 or more mounds for which Ohio is 
famed. 

One of these stands in our midst today, between 
Seelye and Sawtell Avenues, a priceless relic of 
the past, which it is greatly to be feared will soon 
give place to some modern structure, unless 
measures are taken to preserve it. There were 
many mounds in the Cleveland of early days, but 
this is the only one left untouched, and it will be 



ENLARGING— 1S71-1S96. 110 

an irreparable loss if the money value exceeds the 
historic value of these fezv feet of land. 

The mound is a silent reminder of a people who 
trod this land long before the advent of the white 
settlers, a treasure bequeathed to us through gen- 
erations of human beings, and one it will event- 
ually be to our credit and renown to save for 
future generations to behold. Would that proper 
measures for its preservation might be a part of 
our grand Centennial Celebration! 

Great as our city is in many ways, the cry is 
still for "Greater Cleveland," and we naturally 
ask what marvelous changes may be expected 
during the coming century? In what shall this 
much-talked-of greatness consist? Shall the ris- 
ing generation see our water-front of 7 or 8 miles 
built up with docks and warehouses, where ves- 
sels of heavy burthen shall load and unload their 
valuable cargoes? Shall they see our Chamber 
of Commerce doing all its proposed good work for 
the city in a building of its own of ample propor- 
tions and elegant architecture? Shall they see in 
reality the new post-office and court house which 
we see in our mind's eye? Shall they draw in- 
spiration from works of art within the magnifi- 
cent Art Building we have so long heard about? 
Shall they have furnished for them, what we so 
much need, a larger and more suitable Public 
Library Building, where may be found records 
and reports of every organization, society and 



120 HISTORY OF CLEVELAND. 

trade in the city, beside such vahiable works as 
they are fast accumulating? 

Shall they be enabled to study into the customs 
of the past by viewing the treasures within the 
pleasant, commodious building owned by the 
Western Reserve Historical Society? Shall it 
be vouchsafed to them to breath a pure, smoke- 
less atmosphere, and to see the city streets kept 
clean by squads of men such as are now often 
supported in idleness in asylums or reformatory 
institutions at public expense? Shall they see 
fewer great churches and many greater congre- 
gations of true worshipers? See greater charity 
between the sects, or better yet — no sects and 
creeds? See greater honesty in political, busi- 
ness and social life? Greater equality of sex and 
greater respect for what is pure and good? In 
other words, shall the greatness of the Greater 
Cleveland be numerical, moral or both? 

Its history during the past has been through- 
out worthy, and its growth phenomenal. May 
the new century, so soon to begin, prove one of 
peace and prosperity to 

*'The beautiful city, the Forest-tree city, 
The city upon the Lake Shore." 





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